 Malaysian fashion designer Hatta Dolmat’s sustainable collection showcased at KLFW 2020 last week shows a huge step forward for the local fashion industry and the country’s fight against plastic and textile waste. By Shareena Aziz 1721 words; 8 min read. The week that was Kuala Lumpur Fashion Week (KLFW) has come and gone and this year’s event was definitely a special one. In the midst of a global pandemic, the local fashion industry has shown their resilience and on top of that, their efforts to make fashion more purposeful and meaningful. A first of its yearly incarnations, KLFW 2020 was all digital - inviting audiences to watch online from all over the world. Not only that, Hatta Dolmat has marked himself as the first Malaysian fashion designer to design a sustainable high fashion range at the event. And, a first for Hatta himself, the collection will be his opening endeavour into addressing environmental issues, not only within the fashion industry but also with the country’s current lack of solution to textile and plastic waste. About 63% of the world’s clothing and apparel are made of polyester. If you haven’t caught on by now, yes, polyester equals plastic. “[In Malaysia,] we have been struggling with uncontrollable plastic waste management for decades and now, textile waste is aggravating the problem. There is no doubt that ‘fast fashion’ and the local fashion industry are contributing to textile wastes in landfills,” Hatta says. “Therefore as a fashion designer, it is my responsibility to not just spread awareness on this issue, but to also show the sustainable methods of clothes making to industry players.” A study by green group WWF last year found that Malaysians were the biggest consumers of plastic packaging among other Southeast Asian countries, including China, Indonesia, the Philippines, Thailand and Vietnam. At almost 17kg of plastic consumption per person each year, devastating news of plastic waste washing up along local shores alarms the need for a proper solution and overwhelming support to mitigate plastic pollution. Although ranking highest in waste collection as well, the report says that Malaysia’s lack of infrastructure to recycle large amounts of waste is concerning. Adrian Choo, leader of WWF-Malaysia’s sustainable markets program, says “the root cause of plastic waste leakage into the environment is the lack of sound waste management systems.”  Plastic bottles are a huge environmental problem. They are made out of PET (polyethylene terephthalate) Fabric waste is also plastic waste Meanwhile, the country’s own Solid Waste Management and Public Cleansing Corporation (SWCorp) also reported that the amount of fabric waste entering landfills has doubled to 6.3 percent in just six years. It was further pointed out that most of these fabric wastes could be reused, recycled or processed to become solid fuel. The HD Monogram 20/21 collection is released in conjunction with Hatta’s 15th anniversary since his debut, merging together with his early interests of making accessories, such as bags, bucket hats and shoes, out of his fabric remnants. Now, he wants to take that further by designing a whole collection using fabric composed of recycled plastic bottles and organic fibre, commonly called recycled polyester or rPET (recycled polyethylene terephthalate.) Polyester comes from crude oil which has been known to cause significant damage to the environment during its extraction process, and as a result of its high durability, can take 700 years to decompose. Invented during World War II due to difficulties in obtaining cotton, polyester has bloomed as a versatile fabric that features anywhere within fine apparel and activewear through to UV-rated outdoor gear and cleaning cloths. Polyester fabrics have always been strong, resistant to stretching and shrinking, easy to clean, quick drying and resistant to wrinkles, mildew and abrasions. Recycled polyester is thought to be a more sustainable option because unlike virgin polyester, it uses plastic that has already been created, such as plastic bottles. These plastic bottles are collected and sorted before being broken down into small flakes. Once cleaned, they are chemically treated into more formed, smaller pieces called pellets or chips. The pieces are melted down, eventually being extruded and bundled into a yarn which can then be woven into fabric. Not only does this process require less energy and water than the production of virgin polyester, it possesses a lower carbon footprint than both nylon and cotton. It also ensures that plastic, which would otherwise end up in landfills, can be continuously recycled and repurposed, creating an almost infinite lifecycle.  How PET becomes rPET. Source: Kloth Lifestyle. However, Hatta points out, it doesn’t make a difference if plastic bottles are still being used excessively and disposed of carelessly. As each metre of the fabric can only be made up of seven to eight plastic bottles, he hopes this collection can also inspire people to be more conscious of their plastic consumption. Kloth Lifestyle comes to the rescue During the research and development phase of his collection, Hatta felt he needed to get the right information about recycled materials and the exact data of textile waste in Malaysia. He took up the help of SWCorp and Kloth Malaysia, resulting in their tripartite collaboration towards this collection. Whilst SWCorp provided their vast data on the subject, the sought-after fabric was provided by Kloth, a social organisation aiming to keep fabric and plastic out of landfills by pioneering a circular economy model. Co-founders and long time friends, Suzy (Nik Suzila) and Sarah (Sarahah Kedah), made waves through the success of their Kloth Cares Recycling Fabric Movement in 2018, where they quickly accomplished the goal of collecting 188,000 kilograms of locally donated fabric in just 11 months. Today, they’ve collected over 800,000 kilograms of fabric and installed over 300 donation bins. “It proves that, actually, people do want to recycle. It’s just that they don’t have a platform or outlet that they believe or trust,” Suzy says. Since then, they have been trying to grow their organisation to become more adaptable to the agile and volatile fashion industry, and more accessible to everyone, which they believe is the reason for slow progress. Sarah explains, “We’re trying to capture the whole value chain that is needed in terms of plastic and fabric circularity. So, we thought, ‘What can we do? How can we help and expand from this one scope?’”. This ambition has turned their initial project into a multifaceted company, harbouring their other movement brands including Kloth Cares for fabric recycling, Kloth Wear for their product brand of fabrics, textiles and products made from recycled polyester, and soon-to-be launched Kloth Textile, where they work with various suppliers to source the finest quality textiles for clients to design their own products. Suzy explains that at the end of the day, they want to provide a ‘one stop centre’. “If you want to do something - be it donating, buying or selling - we have an outlet for you. That’s what we’re trying to do,” Suzy says. They say many of their successes have come from taking the time to explore different possibilities and particularly with Hatta - serendipitous opportunity. Kloth tells me that when they had first met Hatta last year, they introduced him to their Kloth Wear brand. However, when they were expected to get the fabric, the global pandemic had forced international imports to be temporarily closed. All they had were 35 metres of white recycled polyester fabric.  Long-time friends Suzy and Sarah from Kloth Lifestyle. “If it wasn’t for the lockdown, Sarah and I might have ordered something else for him. When the international ports closed though, we had no other choice but to give him the white fabric,” Suzy says. To their surprise and pleasure, Hatta immediately fell in love with it - holding the roll of fabric up excitedly (see picture below), which Kloth released on their social media accounts. Then, Hatta quickly got to work; which didn’t come without its own struggles. In the miniseries documentary of his KLFW 2020 journey titled ‘Hatta Dolmat The Sustainable Project’, he shows his design process throughout the collection including his initial trials with the fabric. Hatta says it took months for him to even “get the right colour and learn the behaviour of the material”. Suzy also lets me in on a little know-how saying, “Hatta’s design was supposed to black in colour, but it turned out greyish black. It's because the fabric cannot absorb colour as well as virgin polyester fabric [through digital printing].” While he had planned to incorporate flora and oceanic designs into the collection, he quickly decided on a more sleek and forward-thinking design utilising digital printing on the fabric. “HD Monogram 20/21 is not just another collection… it carries a whole new meaning and responsibility towards the sustainable future. That’s when I thought that I needed to change the direction towards a more modern and high fashion look. I want to show that recycled materials can be high-fashion,” Hatta says.
 Hatta Dolmat was very excited to start on his sustainable fashion project with SWCorp and Kloth Lifestyle. He's seen here with the 35m roll of rPET supplied by Kloth. Fashioning Responsibly “I do hope that our local fashion industry players can begin to learn and open their minds about sustainable fashion. Fashion is about responsibility. We need to cure the world.” With a platform like KLFW, Suzy and Sarah both think that Hatta’s collection can create a huge positive impact on the way future fashion designers can prioritise sustainability. “Because of his influence and also the support from the association (KLFW) whereby the most influential designers are all under the same wing, I believe sustainability in practice will cascade down to young fashion designers and also move laterally in his industry as something exemplary and must be done,” Suzy says. As part of his ongoing commitment to raising awareness on sustainability, Hatta will also launch the Kuala Lumpur Young Designer Award (KLYDA) in 2021. He explains that while exposure to the sustainable movement among fashion students is low, he hopes that this can be one way for local students to be educated about sustainable and ethical fashion. “They are the ones who need to get the idea of sustainability,” Hatta saya. “We are also working closely with the Ministry of Higher Education to make amends and make improvements on the local syllabus.” This collection will no doubt create ripples throughout the local fashion industry, which until now has been pretty quiet about sustainability. And, with the combined and collaborative efforts of similar organisations like Kloth and SWCorp, the beehive can only get bigger. Hatta asserts, “I want other designers to see that if I can assemble this together, they’re able to do so too. I want the government to see that the fashion industry can also contribute to solving waste management issues. I want the public to learn that the fashion industry is not just full of glitz and glam. It’s contributing to the circular economy of the nation as well.” Shareena is a journalism graduate with a passion for stories about the arts, culture, social issues, and any combination of the three. She is personally interested in collaborating with other like-minded people, and loves interviewing people on all the above. She is currently a producer and content manager at the podcast, Conversations in Colour. Join us in our Slow Fashion movement with the hashtags #ConscientiousFashionista and #wardrobetruths on Instagram, and follow us at @fashinfidelity.
Tags: #plasticbottles #plasticwaste #keepfabricoutoflandfills #sustainability #circularfashion #circularity #ethicalfashion #sustainablefashion #ecofashion #greenfashion #responsiblefashion #recycledyarn #recycledfabric #recycling #MalaysianFashion #Malaysia #KLFW #DigitalKLFW #HattaDolmat #conscientiousfashionista #fastfashion #slowfashion #wardrobetruths #fashioneducation #fashion #fashinfidelity
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Its modus operandi gets as close to Slow Fashion more than we realise. By Annelise Lecordier 1888 words, 9 min read. Utter the words Haute Couture within hearing distance of anyone with half an understanding of the fashion industry and you’re bound to bring up the same kinds of associations. Luxury. Excess. Escapism. Half accurate approximations of French designer names. Whatever the specifics may be, bottom line is – Haute Couture exists within a bubble of its own. With one-of-kind handmade designs costing in excess of $100,000, nothing about it seems accessible and, to many, represents the worst excesses of the fashion industry. Something to be enjoyed by out of touch elites that have little concern for conversations on the impacts of the fashion industry. But what if I were to tell you that Haute Couture could actually be the future of #sustainability? Now hear me out, I know what you’re thinking – surely nothing this outrageously overpriced and wasteful could ever be considered sustainable. But taking a closer look at the practices of the industry might actually reveal that it has more in common with the slow fashion movement than you think.  The House of Fendi. So epic! Photo by Arno Senoner via Unsplash Oh, the Luxury Legally speaking, a fashion house can only call itself Haute Couture if it meets the requirements set out by the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode. These include standards around how many skilled workers must be involved in the creation of a garment, with only a specific number of items being created each season within a made-to-order system. As a result, each garment is meticulously crafted by hand by highly skilled people who are often very well paid for their work, with every detail being painstakingly decided over from conception to final product. The end product in question is a garment that is made to last – so much so that many often end up in private collections and museums. By its nature, Haute Couture exists outside of fast fashion’s built-in obsolescence. Couturiers traditionally produce only two collections a year centred around garments that emphasise timelessness. It embodies an approach to clothing that is diametrically opposed to the fast fashion’s cheap chic aesthetic which instead thrives on fast production cycles, limited durability and a consumer mind-set that embraces disposability in exchange for trend-led designs intended for short-term use. Don’t get me wrong – producing exorbitantly priced garments not meant for everyday wear for the select few might not pass muster as eco-friendly. But Haute Couture’s practices do resemble what has come to epitomise slow fashion’s approach to sustainability, defined by a similar focus on carefully selected materials, more considered labour practices, smaller production batches and an emphasis on longevity in terms of both design and quality. And lately, Haute Couture has been taking its commitment to sustainability even further, offering a potential roadmap for a more radical rethinking of fashion’s practices.
Ready-to-Wear Gets Inspired Looking at recent runway shows and various atelier’s adoption of eco-conscious practices, for instance, reveals the role Haute Couture can play in driving this change. Couturiers like Ronald van der Kemp and Iris van Herpen are perfect examples of this. Part of a slew of Amsterdam-based designers – an emerging counter-balancing force to the Paris fashion bubble – van der Kemp and van Herpen’s latest runway creations have centred sustainable practices and technological experimentation in a stated bid to reduce the industry’s environmental impact. A long-time champion of sustainable fashion, 98% of van der Kemp’s collection in 2019 was made from repurposed fabrics and materials collected largely from factory waste and overstock from past collections. This is part of the designer’s larger plan to work with companies in the industry to find more sustainable solutions to their waste problems by using their “leftover [to] produce clothes” instead of the current practices of burning or throwing them away. Xuan-Thu Nguyen, founder of Paris-based Xuan, is similarly inspired by the possibilities that re-using traditionally discarded materials holds. Her commitment to this was already seen in her Fall/Winter 19/20 collection which was crafted from 90% deadstock. She’s decided to take this practice further through the creation of her new line, 1/Off, which works exclusively with vintage pieces to create upcycled garments. To Nguyen, this focus on upcycling should be a given. “We shouldn’t just throw materials away,” she told Vogue. “It’s still beautiful so why not use it?” For van Herpen, the excitement lies in finding new ways of developing more eco-conscious fabrics and innovative ways of conceptualising design to increase the versatility of garments. She has collaborated with numerous architects and scientists in the past to do this, looking at how a single garment can take on multiple forms through kinetic designs or using a mix of technology and traditional techniques to work with materials in ways we’ve never seen before. She’s particularly excited by the possibility of octopus-like textures that hold the capacity to change colour and shape. “It’s [still] further in the future, but [it] creates a lot of possibilities for fashion,” van Herpen told Vogue. “You [could] change the design and colours; customise it.” That creates less need for a lot of clothes; it becomes a whole different philosophy of owning. This kind of commitment to sustainability is slowly becoming part of every aspect of couture, with Chanel recently announcing their investment in a Boston-based start-up that’s developing an eco-friendly silk technology, building on their previous investment in Finnish biodegradable plastic packaging alternatives. Let’s not kid ourselves, Chanel’s overall business practices leaves a lot to be desired – but this kind of investment into potentially mitigating the impacts of their creations creates a lot of new and interesting possibilities for the industry as a whole. Put quite simply, the fact that sustainability is becoming a bigger part of the conversation for Haute Couture and luxury brands can have positive implications for how the rest of the industry views their supply chain practices. Think of it as that scene from The Devil Wears Prada where Meryl Streep schools Anne Hathaway on the real impact decisions made in their offices can have on her everyday life – in this case, sustainability is cerulean, Meryl Streep is Haute Couture and we’re all Anne Hathaway a few seasons away from having a more sustainable wardrobe. And we’re seeing this change happening in Couture menswear too, with Zegna’s Spring/Summer 20 show embracing the #UseTheExisting ethos. As Alessandro Sartori, artistic director of Zegna, put it, “It is our duty as denizens of this world to live responsibly. Everything is connected, and everything conveys the same idea: we do not need to create the new from scratch, but we can reuse and reinvent the existing, getting progressive fabrics out of discarded ones, translating traditional techniques into innovative lifetime tailoring, turning an abandoned place into an area of creation.” Overall, 20% of the collection was crafted from upcycled material, with suits made entirely from wool remnants and recycled cashmere proving particularly popular. While far from representing an overwhelming commitment to deadstock, the success of this line does bode well for the financial viability of a sustainability-first approach to fashion. Haute Couture Can Set the Right Trend Of course, the question remains: is a section of the industry that is so distanced from the average consumer truly in a position to radically change the way fashion as a whole views its relationship with sustainability? Well, the answer lies in the role Haute Couture can play in shifting perceptions of sustainability and its appeal to the everyday consumer. As Joy et al (2012) have found, one of the biggest barriers to embracing the slow fashion movement for consumers is its lack of overall appeal. To most, the concept of slow fashion brings up images of plain clothing with little stylistic interest. When compared to fast fashion’s constant offering of new, trend-led items that offer the immediate gratification of reinvention with one impulsive swipe of our credit cards, aesthetics always seems to trump ethics. That’s further complicated by the fact that, to most consumers, fast fashion seems to exist outside of their environmental consciousness. As the same study found, young people – the very demographic that most embraces fast fashion – seem to view their consumption habits when it comes to clothing as existing outside of the sustainability conversation, even if they are otherwise open to environmentalism. When combined, these two factors make slow fashion an incredibly hard sell to most. That’s where Haute Couture comes in.
By publicly making sustainability part of the conversation, couturiers like van Herpen or fellow Amsterdam-based brand Viktor & Rolf can redefine the way we view environmentally- and socially-responsible practices within the industry. Moving away from perceptions of sustainable fashion brands as boring, outdated or having simply no aesthetic vision whatsoever, Haute Couture’s buy-in can extend the positive associations many have for luxury and couture to the slow fashion movement. These ateliers are used to creating desire through innovative designs and can greatly influence consumption practices, making it seem more possible for us to adopt a new way to do fashion – both as consumers and producers. For van der Kemp, adopting a sustainability-first approach is all about the potential impact this decision might have on broader practices within the industry. “I also want to show the world that it’s possible to make couture with existing materials, dead stock, high-end leftovers, vintage fabrics and that sustainability can be glamourous, sexy and high-fashion,” he stated to Vogue. Van Herpen is motivated by a similar rationale. “This is couture; you will not see this in a store next week, but [it’s] the principle behind it. [I have] big hopes that we will be able change the way we think about materials, and the way we produce,” she said to Vogue. By making sustainability central, the hope is that Haute Couture could set a new path for how the industry functions – all while offering a take on sustainability that might be more appealing to the average consumer. “Couture in its heyday set the tone in fashion. With my sustainable #couture I want to inspire girls out there to experiment with their wardrobes and with vintage clothes; to teach them to enhance their personalities and be conscious about buying clothes,” van der Kemp told CNN Style. If nothing else, Haute Couture can serve as an inspiration to us all to step away from the discounted racks and start searching for those few key pieces to be treasured rather than discarded after a season. With its focus on artisanal quality and an appreciation for craftsmanship, looking to couture could serve to give us a new way of looking at garments – and along with it could come a new-found appreciation for custom, hand-made designs. While this might, once more, seem only accessible to the few, people who can make custom clothes are not confined to French ateliers. They exist all over the country and offer a different avenue for our fashion needs based on small-scale production models and carefully constructed items made to last. What better way of injecting a little something special into our everyday? After all, luxury and escapism doesn’t have to only be enjoyed by the few – it all just depends on how you define it.  Photo by Butsarakham Buranaworachot via Unsplash Annelise is a freelance writer, activist and strategic communications management student currently based in Naarm (present-day Melbourne.) An International Relations graduate originally from Mauritius, she co-founded It’s Not A Compliment – a Melbourne-based campaign against street harassment. She is passionate about human rights, social justice and fighting structural oppression through a strong intersectional, post-colonial feminist lens.
Join us in our Slow Fashion movement with the hashtags #ConscientiousFashionista and #wardrobetruths on Instagram, and follow us at @fashinfidelity. Tags: #hautecouture #leader #sustainability #circularfashion #circularity #ethicalfashion #sustainablefashion #ecofashion #greenfashion #responsiblefashion #recycledyarn #recycledfabric #recycledcotton #fabricrecycling #recycling #conscientiousfashionista #fastfashion #slowfashion #wardrobetruths #fashioneducation #fashion #fashinfidelity 𝗟𝗘𝗦𝗦 𝗧𝗛𝗔𝗡 𝟭% 𝗢𝗙 𝗧𝗛𝗘 𝗠𝗔𝗧𝗘𝗥𝗜𝗔𝗟 𝗜𝗡 𝗖𝗟𝗢𝗧𝗛𝗜𝗡𝗚 𝗜𝗦 𝗥𝗘𝗖𝗬𝗖𝗟𝗘𝗗 𝗜𝗡𝗧𝗢 𝗡𝗘𝗪 𝗚𝗔𝗥𝗠𝗘𝗡𝗧𝗦 • So, how do we change this? 885 words, 4 mins read Globally, most of material that goes into clothing ends up either in landfill or an incinerator (about 73% of all material produced.)  2015 Global Material Flows. Source: Circular Fibres Initiative Textile waste consumes nearly 5% of all landfill space, and 20% of all freshwater pollution is a result of textile treatment and dyeing. Growing cotton requires harmful pesticides and fertilisers, and textile-manufacturing plants release hazardous waste into land, water, and atmosphere. Extracting oil, a non-renewable resource to make plastics for clothing, is also problematic. We will consume more textiles The demand for textiles will rise significantly, as the global population reaches 8.1 billion by 2025. By the mid-century, this figure will be 9.5 billion, and close to 11 billion by 2100. #Asia will shfit from being the world’s largest textile manufacturer and supplier to becoming world’s biggest consumer of textiles. Hence, the need for better recycling options for fibres. Turning waste back into fibres with #technology Most garments that are #recycled are down-recycled. The biggest issue holding back garment-to-garment recycling is fibre quality: fibres are damaged during both wearing and washing. You cannot take a well-used T-shirt, mechanically tear it apart and then make the fibres into a new T-shirt, because they have lost so much fibre quality that the T-shirt will not be of high enough quality to fit into the market. One option is to mix mechanically recycled fibres in with virgin fibres. This has been a popular option for #polyester and #nylon, the material of choice that has been incorporated into many brands we are familiar with today: H&M’s Conscious Collection catalogue is full product offerings containing recycled polyester and virgin polyester blends, Patagonia has been making recycled polyester from plastic soda bottles since 1993, turning trash into fleece, and Adidas has been using abandoned fishing nets from the sea to make adidas x Parley training wear that is made of at least 75% upcycled plastic trash.  The Lifecycle of a typical garment. Source: Green Strategy. Another possibility is to chemically break fibres down into their chemical building blocks and then rebuild them into new fibres with indistinguishable performance characteristics than virgin fibres. Only with a chemical approach can we get the raw materials back and close the loop on textile recycling. One example is NAIA™ Renew yarn, developed by Eastman, a product resulting out of a chemical recycling process. The company describes it as "a cellulosic yarn sourced from 100 percent circular content, produced from 60 percent certified wood fibres and 40 percent recycle waste plastics." Another is re:newcell, a product that turns used cotton and viscose into new biodegradable pulp, new fibers, and new yarn. Their #recycling technology transforms high cellulosic waste into pure, natural dissolving pulp, Circulose pulp. Deakin University in Australia has also developed a similar solution for recycling textiles that involves dissolving cotton and regenerating it into brand-new #cellulose – a complex, strong carbohydrate with many industrial uses. In all of these examples above, the new fibre is 100% biodegradable, so as not to add to the textile waste problem. H&M Foundation, in partnership with HKRITA, The Hong Kong Research Institute of Textiles and Apparel, has also successfully discovered a hydrothermal method that can break down blended textiles to make long, good quality polyester fibres. The ‘Green Machine’ can take 100 kilograms of fabric per day and planned to reach 1,000 kilos per day within one year since its launch in September 2018.  Re:newcell turns used cotton into Circulose at their plant in Kristinehamn, Sweden. Full circularity Is the way to sustainability Of course, recycling fibres by harvesting textiles at its end-of-life is only but one way to tackle fashion’s #sustainability woes. Given there are so many clothes produced in any given year, it is imperative that growth is slowed right back down. #Covid19 has presented the perfect opportunity for both consumers and producers alike to consume and produce differently. Gen Zeds are already buying less new stuff, and preferring to buy pre-loved and #secondhand during isolation, as this recent report had found. So many of us have taken up at-home skills such as #mending and upcycling our old clothes. As the fashion industry grinds to a near-halt, brands are cancelling orders, laying off employees and quickly repositioning marketing messages to account for store closures and customers being stuck at home. In a global crisis, sustainability commitments often fall to the wayside, and most brands are predictably keeping quiet about their ambitions now. To become circular, the fashion industry needs to make fundamental changes in three key areas: product design, infrastructure and business models. It’s not just about reusing fabric again and again, but also considering external impacts, such as greenhouse gases and water contamination with toxic chemicals, that might be generated. This means we are designing out pollution. If we also design with reuse and recyclability in mind, for example, producing clothes from single-material fabrics, how quicker and easier can we get to realising circularity? For a full understanding of The Principles of Circular Fashion, this article sums it up for you. There is no proof or precedent, however, that an economic setback will result in sustainable investments, but if you had a choice to produce differently, wouldn’t now be the right time to set things up right? Join us in our Slow Fashion movement with the hashtags #ConscientiousFashionista and #wardrobetruths on Instagram, and follow us at @fashinfidelity.
Tags: #circularfashion #circularity #ethicalfashion #sustainablefashion #ecofashion #greenfashion #responsiblefashion #recycledyarn #recycledfabric #recycledcotton #fabricrecycling #recycling #conscientiousfashionista #fastfashion #slowfashion #sustainability #wardrobetruths #fashioneducation #fashion #fashinfidelity #pandemic #covid  I tried to look my best at KLFW 2019. I had the best accessory - Biji Biji Ethical Fashion handbag made from rescued seatbelts! Oh, what a week that was!This year I was privileged to have experienced the buzz that is Kuala Lumpur Fashion Week (KLFW), 21-25 August. I have been covering a few stories for Blu Inc Media recently and so when I was asked about attending a few shows, I couldn’t say no! Now in its 7th year, founder Andrew Tan has always reserved a runway show for emerging designers and collections that put emphasis on #sustainable design principles, as well as showcase Malaysian #heritage for the world to see. 1463 words; 7 min read This year however, I feel like the stakes have been risen much higher and the pool of brands, organisations and communities that have banded together to create meaningful impact is bigger than it’s ever been. Suffice to say, sustainability in fashion, especially in the Malaysian context, has matured well beyond anybody’s expectations, or more so, mine. I feel I am qualified to say this because when I arrived in KL in early 2018 to plot the players in the current canvas, I thought the scene was pretty small. I found that there were only a handful of brands that took sustainability seriously, because as a Conscientious Fashionista, it’s all about sieving through the clever marketing and asking what qualifies as ‘sustainable’ in their product lines. Sustainability to me is a holistic approach in your business ethos, from your supply materials through to the ingredients that make up your product down to the way your employees are feeling in their respective workstations… whether their take home pay is enough to make a good living, to how much you minimise waste in your design process and whether your workflows and systems follow a standardised baseline for compliance, and documenting all these; being transparent about the what, who, where, how and why that goes into your product to your customers and stakeholders, recognising that sustainability is a journey, not perfection. Most importantly, I’m weary that brands use the word ‘sustainable’, ‘ethical’ and ‘fair’ without meeting certain respective benchmarks. ...I’m weary that brands use the word ‘sustainable’, ‘ethical’ and ‘fair’ without meeting certain respective benchmarks.  Design to Sustain runway at KLFW, 23 Aug 2019 Biji Biji Initiative Admittedly, I’m a little late to the game because I only entered the ‘scene’ in January last year. But with that, my sample size is much wider, and gave me bigger room to statistically evaluate the status quo. I had been on a mission to connect with local sustainability practitioners, eventually building a database of such individuals and organisations. Very early on, I came across Biji Biji Initiative. I was impressed by Biji Biji’s business model from Day 1. They are a social enterprise that started off with a focus on sustainable lifestyle education and making things out of waste, stemming from their passion for design, technology and art, but organically branched out to other specialities pretty quickly. I first heard about them in late 2017. Biji Biji Ethical Fashion is one of their departments that provides for traction in the sustainable fashion space, where salvaged items and waste materials are turned into clothing and accessories. Instantly, looking at the quality of the product line, I was mesmerised. My initial thought was that they’ve got it right. And they have such high standards of integrity (having a full-time staff that measures their impact and writes their sustainability reports is one such example) that you won’t find loopholes in their story unless you’re being real picky (and nasty.) And trust me, I’m thorough. Biji Biji Initiative’s model of doing business with impact actually works, and it’s quite darned impressive. This is rooted in the style of business management envisioned by its CEO, Rashvin Pal Singh, but I won’t elaborate on that here. The way they do business is part experimental, part clever innovation, and part corporate high-brow. Setting the (Sustainable) Scene Even though Biji Biji Ethical Fashion is a brand that speaks for itself, let’s not pretend that Sustainable Fashion is not a niche field, especially in South East Asia. It sits somewhere as a subset within the wider circle of healthy-eating, yoga-practising, and environmentally-conscious population, but even within this group of aficionados, it’s a very separate field that only rarely gets recognised as an extension of the set. When I was plodding my way through the key players in this space earlier last year, I discovered the OGs that paved the way for creating the opportunities in sustainable fashion who we have the pleasure to recognise now, both on and off the runway. Brands like Biji Biji Ethical Fashion, EarthHeir, Fugeelah, and Batik Boutique are pioneers in Malaysia for creating product with more than just profit in its purpose. It’s 2019, however, and I can say the scene has flourished. The way they do business is part experimental, part clever innovation, and part corporate high-brow. Is it just me or has there been a fair few brand names that have come out of the woodwork in the last couple of years? You can’t go past a shopping mall in Bangsar, PJ, Sunway, KL or Ampang nowadays without coming across a zero waste-inspired pop-up store, a ‘naked’ food joint, or a home décor boutique that sources from social enterprises and local start-ups. The boom in health and mindfulness is not new, but to see sustainability having touched fashion, fabric, and design is surely the more exciting evolution in the conscious living space! Design to Sustain So here we are on an eventful Friday afternoon where the fashionable attendees wait patiently for the 1:30pm show to start. Design to Sustain is an initiative to express KLFW’s support towards sustainable and ethical fashion. It’s a showcase that is supported by the Commonwealth Fashion Council of UK (of which KLFW is a member) to reveal the immense power that fashion has to create positive impact, in alignment with the United Nation’s Sustainable Development Goals. As the emcee presented the show, the audience was introduced to a video about Design to Sustain and how it came about. Shortly after, our designers made their collection debuts on the runway. Daphne Lim, winner of last year’s AirAsia Runway Ready Designer Search set the tone with her collection with clean, structured pieces. SeanSheila, the Singapore-based fashion label kicked off the rest of the afternoon, with utilitarian ensembles in greys, blacks, and mustard. This was followed by Ayu by Tarik, a womenswear sister label to the famously homegrown brand Tarik Jeans, that paraded their debut collection in conjunction with SURI Lifestyle’s upcycled denim bags. (SURI is a social enterprise that empowers single and underprivileged mothers by handcrafting products using upcycled denim.) In the midst of the runway parades, we take a pause as Kloth Lifestyle, a recycling movement to divert fabric from landfills, presented a video on the effects of fast fashion on the environment, and raise awareness on the huge waste issue that exists in fashion. (Watch the video above.) Biji Biji Ethical Fashion x Tsyahmi x Nakakoma Orimono debuted their wonderfully extravagant collection inspired by Nusantara Pahlawans and Japanese Samurais and Geishas. You could practically hear me go ooooh and aaaah at the collection, a brand I've been a fan of for so long, and feel so invested in. I'm so very proud of them! Their collection proves to the world that fashionable items need not cost the Earth, and that there's plenty of materials we willy nilly discard every single day that can be turned into beautiful clothes. Bev C closed the session with their ode to zero-waste construction using pre-loved clothes, and my little adventurous afternoon ended on a very high note. AirAsia, who has hosted the AirAsia Runway Ready Designer Search (AARRDS) since 2016, was also a supporter of #DesignToSustain this year by hosting a challenge, called Rethink and Recontruct. Rethink and Reconstruct challenged 13 designers from past finalists and winners of AARRDS to reimagine outfits and accessories bought with a budget of RM150 from Jalan Jalan Japan (secondhand store of all things from #Japan)— and the results were a feast for creativity, such a feat! Each entry of the challenge graced the catwalk, which turned the afternoon's activities up a notch. A challenge like this is my favourite thing in Sustainable Fashion because its constraints harnesses innovation and forces a paradigm shift in design thinking. I thoroughly enjoyed all the designs and was pleased their creations received exposure to new audiences. #SustainableFashion is an exciting space to be in right now because people are recognising the need to create meaningful impact within existing processes and channels, and this is why I love where this is going: doing more, with less. Sustainable Fashion is an exciting space to be in right now because people are recognising the need to create meaningful impact within existing processes and channels. Congrats KLFW on giving sustainability a platform this year. Did anybody else attend the Design to Sustain runway? Do you have any favourite looks? Feel free to share, as I’d love to hear your thoughts. All in all, I’m looking forward to the scene getting better in 2020! References/Brand listing
Please note; I have listed the designers involved in Design to Sustain at KLFW 2019 here, and any associated information on their collections. The designers whose sustainability credentials in their collections I cannot vouch for, due to a lack of publicly available information, is marked with an asterisk (*)
For a list of Malaysian brands that I’ve recently discovered that I believe do some good work in the sustainable fashion space, I have provided this below, correct at time of writing.
Give these brands a follow, if you haven’t already! As per usual, if you are a brand who is interested in going on a sustainability journey, but don't know where to start, then this is where you call me. I provide assurance services for sustainability claims that backs up your credibility in this space. Remember: sustainability is a journey, not perfection, but if and when you do go down this enlightened sense of business, however small your footsteps start — please do it right. Join us in our Slow Fashion movement with the hashtags #ConscientiousFashionista and #wardrobetruths on Instagram, and follow us at @fashinfidelity. Tags: #KLFW2019 #KLFW #fashion #designtosustain #kualalumpurfashionweek #kualalumpur #rethinkandreconstruct #ethicalfashion #sustainablefashion #ecofashion #greenfashion #responsiblefashion #circularfashion #circularity #conscientiousfashionista #fastfashion #slowfashion #sustainability #wardrobetruths #fashioneducation #fashionisnolongertrendy #fashion #saynotofastfashion #fashionnews #innovation #design #designthinking #designingoutwaste #unsdg #sdg Shameless plug: for 10% off your purchase at Biji Biji Ethical Fashion, please use my affiliate code 'SEBIJINAJAH' at checkout (excludes their KLFW runway collection.)  A man samples secondhand clothes (locally known as mitumba) at the Gikomba open-air market on June 25, 2012, in Nairobi. (Photo: SIMON MAINA VIA GETTY IMAGES) Hey guys, so it’s almost April, and I’m sorry I’ve been quiet. I’ve been a little busy with attending industry events and creating and curating my 2019 calendar, plus I’ve got some juicy video content that I’m working on that’s taken up a bit of my time.Fashion Revolution Week is upon us too – April is an important month for #fashion! So, to keep you up-to-date, here is some news that you need to know right now to keep you in good stead when you’re ‘working the room’ come April 22nd. 1,354 words; 6 min read. Best good news story, right from the hotdesk The UN Alliance for Sustainable Fashion was launched on 15th March at the 4th UN Environment Assembly in Nairobi, Kenya. Its aim is to seek to halt the environmentally and socially destructive practices of fashion and instead harness the industry as a driver for improving the world’s ecosystems. The Alliance is improving collaboration among UN agencies by analysing their efforts in making fashion #sustainable, identifying solutions and gaps in their actions, and presenting these findings to governments to trigger policy. More on the story here. Why is this news important? Because Nairobi is home to the biggest secondhand clothing market in East Africa. Watch this very basic investigative video on what happens to your old donated clothes and textile waste by Canadian Broadcasting Corporation. Sustainability movements across the world you might have missed
 Celine DeCarlo, one of the industry experts who were present at the recent Australian Circular Fashion Conference, held on 21st March 2019. Where fashion is at, right now The Global Fashion Agenda and Boston Consulting Group, in its Pulse of the Fashion Industry Report, puts fashion, as an industry, responsible for the emission of 1,715 million tons of carbon dioxide equivalent (CO2-e) in 2015, about 5.4% of the 32.1 billion tons of global carbon emissions that year. The emission trail behind electricity and heat (24.9%), agriculture (13.8%), road transportation (10.5%), and oil and gas production (6.4%), and is equal to livestock (5.4%). The Pulse of Fashion argues that the industry must do more to put fashion on a path to long-term prosperity — financially, socially, and environmentally — and measures its "Pulse" points (out of 100, based on metrics off the Sustainable Apparel Coalition’s Higg Index), to get there. Since 2017, their work has demonstrated that sustainability means good business. Their website states, "..new data and calculations show that investments in resource #efficiency, secure work environments and sustainable materials boost profitability by up to 1-2 percentage points in EBIT margin by 2030." In the end though, they have summoned that it needs to be a joint effort by investors, regulators, NGOs, academia and consumers — to create an ecosystem that supports transformational innovation and disruptive business models. Check out an article about the Report here. As at May 2018, the industry's Pulse sits at 32. The yearly Report’s release normally coincides with Copenhagen Fashion Summit, which brings us to… Sustainability happenings that should be on your radar
Some industry stats you should be aware of by now, really
So there you have it – a healthy dose of fashion goodness enough to break your weekend reading list for now. I’ll be back with more! Join us in our Slow Fashion movement with the hashtags #ConscientiousFashionista and #wardrobetruths on Instagram, and follow us at @fashinfidelity. Tags: #ethicalfashion #sustainablefashion #ecofashion #greenfashion #responsiblefashion #circularfashion #circularity #conscientiousfashionista #fastfashion #slowfashion #sustainability #wardrobetruths #fashioneducation #fashionisnolongertrendy #fashion #saynotofastfashion #fashionnews #SDG #sustainabledevelopmentgoals #UNSDG #fashionrevolution #stateoffashion #bof #copenhagen #copenhagenfashionsummit #globalfashionagenda #gfa  What we do today, will impact our children's generation, and their children's generation. Photo: Juliane Liebermann via Unsplash.com Now that we're at the tail end of the 'gifting' season, I'd like to catch you just in time before we usher in the new year to talk about creating positive impact. 1753 words; 8 min read. I often receive feedback on how great I am at staying motivated to keep up with my fitness regime six days a week (OK fine, sometimes four or five.) The new year is a great benchmark of when we usually make resolutions to become healthier, fitter, stronger, more focused, throw away bad habits, or to get started on that dream project that feeds our inner passion and desires. Action feeds motivationWhen asked what actually motivates me to get up and go: I respond by stating that I just do. Many of us seem to think that motivation precedes action; that you need motivation to be inspired to do something. This is actually a myth. I have days where I am not motivated, sure. Being self-employed working in the creative industry requires an amount of discipline that is not structured like a 9am to 5pm working week. But I know I have a vision that needs to be realised; and this is what people normally go by: their desire to reach a goal. They generally have an idea what kind of result they want to achieve but don't know where to start. This is OK. I say to you: just start. Nothing starts off being a perfect piece of work, art, body, or skill. So I can tell you this: action leads you to the next 'thing' you're meant to do. Once you actually do something, even the smallest of it, like putting on your running shoe, your reflexes will show you the way. Then you'll see a continual loop of action, inspiration, and motivation meshed in together. Starting to write this article required some effort, yes, as there are family around during the holidays that are taking some of my working time away from me and I could easily get distracted with joining in holiday-type 'activities' (e.g. binge watching re-runs of Scrooged and Elf.) However, as I started to open this template, inserted my stock photo, typing the Title of the article... my hands just kept on going as I knew the story I wanted to convey. This article is about creating positive impact. So now that we've covered the power of action, let's move on to why..  Some fast fashion brands you may recognise Fast FashionYou probably know by now that #FastFashion is not good for our planet. The resources it requires is putting extra pressure on our #environment and people, in a negative way, while big corporations are only interested in making more profit for themselves by squeezing tight the cost of production, mainly in the form of wages and raw materials, and avoidance of #compliance. If you're already thinking about positively impacting your own future as the countdown to midnight on December 31 gets closer — be it your health, your family, your relationships, your career, your ambitions... then this innate urge can only be described as a natural human feature: to improve upon something. In terms of consuming fashion, the statistics don't lie — more of us are concerned over the impact that mindlessly following trends and over-producing clothes are having, like it or not. Some groups in certain geographical regions are not as sensitive to the subject, but the tide from consumers, as well as producers, are closing in towards each other. This is evident in the latest State of Fashion 2019 Report, the third of its kind and the most authoritative on the industry, written by McKinsey & Company in partnership with Business of Fashion (BoF). The Report forewarns a disruptive year ahead as sales growth is projected to slow slightly compared to 2018's projections, across many value segments and regions, due to external shocks and economic uncertainty. The State of Fashion surveyed more than 275 global fashion executives (approximately 30 percent more than last year) and interviewed thought leaders and pioneers, and provides for insight into the Top Ten #fashion trends of 2019. According to the Report, "regardless of size and segment, players now need to be nimble, think digital-first, and achieve ever-faster speed to market. They need to take an active stance on social issues, satisfy consumer demands for radical transparency and sustainability, and, most important, have the courage to “self-disrupt” their own identity and the sources of their old success to realise these changes and win new generations of customers." As automation and data analytics have enabled a new breed of start-ups to achieve agile made-to-order production... players are... responding more rapidly to trends and consumer demands, achieving just-in-time production and reducing overstock and making short, small-batch production cycles the new norm. On SustainabilityOne of the Top Ten fashion trends identified the lifespan of the fashion product is becoming more elastic as pre-owned, refurbished, repair and rental business models continue to evolve. As "one in seven [young people] consider it a fashion faux-pas to be photographed in an outfit twice..", this is a win for sustainability. (44% of survey respondents believe the pre-owned and rental business models will be more relevant in 2019 than in 2018.) Another great win for #sustainability comes from on-demand consumption. As automation and data analytics have enabled a new breed of start-ups to achieve agile made-to-order production, mass players are forecasted to begin to experiment next, responding more rapidly to trends and consumer demands, achieving just-in-time production and reducing overstock and making short, small-batch production cycles the new norm. This sounds like a reversing of the fast fashion model to me! The Report also makes a case for the distrusting customer, who expects the same sharing of information on value for money, creative integrity, and data protection after years of having personal data owned and handled by businesses. This is in line with Fashion Revolution's recent Consumer Survey Report's findings in which the majority of consumers surveyed (Germany, United Kingdom, France, Italy and Spain only) think fashion brands should be more #transparent.  Page 62 onwards of the 2019 State of Fashion Report by BoF and McKinsey & Company goes into detail of what radical transparency means for businesses Keep going slowThe wave of disruption in fashion will only continue towards shifting consumer needs that either will make or break the fortunes of brands and companies. The State of Fashion concludes that even though the turmoil will continue in 2019, this should be seen as an opportunity to "self-disrupt" in order to respond and stay relevant. In other news, we, as #responsible #consumers, should continue to follow the 5 Rules of Slow Fashion, and keep disrupting fashion from the outside:
That natural human feature, to improve upon something applies here. Once you start supporting the Slow Fashion movement, you're already making a #positive difference. The Global Fashion Agenda and Boston Consulting Group, in its Pulse of the Fashion Industry Report, puts fashion, as an industry, responsible for the emission of 1,715 million tons of carbon dioxide equivalent (CO2-e) in 2015, about 5.4% of the 32.1 billion tons of global carbon emissions that year. The emission trail behind electricity and heat (24.9%), agriculture (13.8%), road transportation (10.5%), and oil and gas production (6.4%), and is equal to livestock (5.4%). The Pulse of Fashion argues that the industry must do more to put fashion on a path to long-term prosperity — financially, socially, and environmentally — and measures its "Pulse" points (out of 100, based on metrics off the Sustainable Apparel Coalition’s Higg Index), to get there. Since 2017, their work has demonstrated that sustainability means good business. Their website states, "..new data and calculations show that investments in resource #efficiency, secure work environments and #sustainable materials boost profitability by up to 1-2 percentage points in EBIT margin by 2030." In the end though, they have summoned that it needs to be a joint effort by investors, regulators, NGOs, academia and consumers — to create an ecosystem that supports transformational innovation and disruptive business models. As at September 2018, the industry's Pulse sits at 32. Going back to impact, consuming fashion differently can really change the world. Because the industry's upstream processes involve: electricity (i.e. powering factories and mills), agriculture (i.e. cotton, leather), and oil and gas (i.e. polyester.) Can you see? I'm proud of us! For a bit more on the Slow Fashion lifestyle, check out my presentation on SlideShare.  As we continue to go about our daily lives..Throughout 2019, I'd like you to consider gifting consciously as we approach the yearly festivities and celebrations for ourselves, but also for others. If the person you're gifting already has enough material things, then perhaps gift them an 'experience', for example, something they've wanted to try out but are too chicken to do. You can also swap gifting with donating to a cause that the person (or you) cares (care) very much about, or buy a gift of which its proceeds go to this cause. #Quality, not quantity: curate your gifts to your favourite people — something that is practical and useful, that will have multiple positive 'impacts'. Positive impact can mean: reduction of cost, avoidance of new resources, benefits someone's education.. the list goes on. Something like a #reuseable cutlery/straw pack, a reuseable cup if they're a coffee lover, a fitness program membership if they're trying to get started but haven't, a yearly theatre company subscription to nurture their interest in the arts. I... help individuals and companies make decisions every single day, that create not just one positive impact, but many. This is, in essence, what I do — I'm Najah (@cleonajah), the creator of FASHINFIDELITY.COM and Principal Consultant at Footprint Mechanics. I work to help individuals and companies make decisions every single day, that create not just one positive impact, but many**. If you have to make a decision about anything; today, tomorrow, and next week: get in the habit of thinking about how many 'impact' categories you can affect. It could be for people's livelihoods, wages, encourages reuse and recycling, replacing your raw materials to lower-footprint equivalent, promotes healthier bodies, flora and fauna preservation, integration of systems and adoption of newer technology, builds community capacity.. you catch my drift.  People in varying conditions of workplace environments make your clothes. Sustainability is not perfection; it's a journey. Photo: At a recycled cotton yarn factory in Neemrana, India, November 2018. FASHINFIDELITY is an online platform that tries to deconstruct the fashion supply chain, adding substance to the #ConsciousFashion chatter. We try to dissect the convoluted weave of how fashion actually works, without misconstruing the significance of all the steps involved. If you have an interest in facts without spin and a scientific approach to solving problems, head on over to the blog section of the website and follow us on Instagram. Remember: consume less, consume consciously, think about multiplying positive impacts in all aspects of decision making, and give well! Wishing everyone a safe and meaningful #holiday season. I'll see you in the new year 💚 **If you need help with incorporating sustainability principles in your organisation, please get in touch. I'm currently based in Kuala Lumpur, but travel between Melbourne and Perth, Australia, to Southeast Asia, regularly. I would be happy to de-mystify sustainability and simplify what it means in terms of action for you. New year, new you! Tags: #sustainability #sustainabledevelopment #supplychain #conscientiousfashionista #fashioneducation #fashionisnolongertrendy #wardrobetruths #saynotosingleuse #ethicalconsumption #consciousconsumption #ethicalfashion #sustainablefashion #newyearresolution #newyear #newyearnewyou #2019 #positiveimpact References:
 The Clean Silk Oversized Shirt by Everlane, a label known for its transparent supply chain and sustainability efforts in production processes ... or eco, green, conscious, sustainable. Is it a little bit like GMO-free, organic, local, and fat-free in food? 3337 words; 16 min read Bottom line is – it’s not that straightforward. And here lies our problem, because there are people out there, like you and me, who want to make the effort to support brands that don’t subscribe to the fast fashion formula; brands who stick to values that speak to us or are proud to flaunt their own, but we get so damn confused over these jargons, and who has time to check the claims these businesses are spruiking? A graphics designer and an environmental engineer walks into a bar, and….The supply chain of the fashion industry is long and complex as it is. I’ve worked in sustainability in my career of 15 years. I understand the context of this socio-economic green revolution that’s hit us this past decade, and I know how to break these terms down to their bare definitions, but, let’s face it, not many of us are lucky enough to be able to fully decipher the contents of a Pepsi can, so what chance does the average Jane have on trusting the myriad of cool, hip and socially-conscious stories some brands are drawing our attention to? In my work as an environmental engineer, I often find ways to holistically solve a problem. For example, if there is an environmental waste issue, I would usually work my way back up the upstream processes that contribute to the problem, which could include the supply of materials, the limitations of infrastructure, the business processes that are being used, the decisions made by people in positions of authority, the workers involved, and the costs of each. Many problems arise from the way a product is designed as they don’t take into account the interaction the product will have with other products or services during its life and at its end of life. To cut a long story short, I have to make sure a workable solution is found not at the cost of something else, or introduce another problem to the process flow of events, and does not negatively impact the profit of the company or the well-being of its people. In summary, sustainability principles in action. My day job has taught me to not be fooled by what’s on the surface of what people are trying to sell you, and so I ask questions to satisfy myself enough to make an informed decision. But not everyone’s like me. ....not many of us are lucky enough to be able to fully decipher the contents of a Pepsi can, so what chance does the average Jane have on trusting the myriad of cool, hip and socially-conscious stories some brands are drawing our attention to? Fashion never wanted to grow upWith the advent of ‘eco-fashion’ of the 1990’s (think hemp clothing, tie dyed scarves, and neutral loose-fitting basics), or most widely known to some as “hippie clothing” at the back of the scandalous controversies that surrounded the industry (e.g. the Nike slave labour scandal and the use of animal fur for in clothing), other exposés have come and gone without stamping a real lasting impression on the general population’s media vocabulary. It wasn’t that long ago, in 2007, that staff were injured as Primark opened their doors to the public when they launched at the Marble Arch end of London's Oxford Street. When hoards of people, hyped up about the arrival of this cheap and cheerful brand, stampeded their way into the store, little did they realise they were paving the way to create the big monster we now know as fast fashion. “Did anyone catch the news last night, about how textile factory workers in India are sick from exposure to Chromium-6 by-products because of the lack of safety controls and regulations in the industry?”, said no one ever. Picture this: We see bad news stories of disasters involving industry in the news (fire, explosions, workplace accidents involving heavy machinery) on TV, but we don’t ever hear about the farming of crocodiles to supply reptile skin to Hermes at the expense of these animals’ lives, the awful conditions that workers endure toiling away at cut-make-trim factories, and chemicals used in textile dyeing factories that go untreated before discharging into the environment make prime time headlines.  Textile dyeing and treatment is one of the most polluting activities in the world today, but the average consumer doesn't even think about this when purchasing clothes. (Image source: Reuters.) Clothes are an everyday necessity, and for many an important aspect of self-expression. Yet the way clothes are made and used today is extremely wasteful and polluting. Somehow, it’s acceptable to design and produce an infinite number of trousers, shirts, skirts, cardigans, boots, whatever... just because we can. Whereas when we make cars, make household products, drill oil and refine petroleum, mine for resources, make medicine, pharmaceutical products, and chemicals for agricultural use, we can’t get away with most things fashion gets away with! A perpetual PR machine Why, I wonder? Because no one really knew what was going on… until now. Most people I talk to, when introducing myself, don’t actually realise fashion has a footprint. Images of towering smoke stacks, pooled liquid waste, and piles of rubbish don’t actually come to the fore, at all. Not their fault, though. The industry is built on advertising, advertising, and more advertising. Sell, sell, sell. You NEED this. This outfit looks so good on this model, I want that ‘look.’ My favourite celebrities love this type of sunglasses: I. WANT. IT. A lot of sparkly things, razzle dazzle, shiny and bright imagery had turned us blind into why such items are actually beneficial to our lives and overall happiness. (By the way, I talk about real #happiness in my last blog post.) Because of this, the fashion industry has been stalling real reinvention, development and innovation. It is an industry that thrives on selling things you don’t need. An industry that has completely bastardised the word ‘sustainability.’ I’ll explain why. Sustainable development is a term coined at the 1992 Earth Summit in Rio de Janeiro, which means “development that meets the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs.” Over the years, the term sustainability has widely been used to describe the consideration of all aspects of producing a commodity or material product, delivering a service, and building communities so that the integration of our built environment and other living things are balanced. It is widely known by its three pillars of social, environmental and economic equity. You might have heard the term Triple Bottom Line, or TBL, which is essentially another representation. In fashion, it seems the term sustainability only became inserted in the industry’s lingua franca in the mid-2000’s. But I can’t help but suspect that the motive is still the same, to keep the PR machine driving. It’s ‘trendy’ to be ‘conscious’ right now now. So let’s just say you come across brands that have popped up in your feed, wanting to provide an ‘alternative’ product to consume, because mass-produced fashionable items are bad. How do you tell if this is not pure greenwashing? Be Like Najah: A Little Conscientious Look, I’m not saying that we can’t start somewhere. Of course we could. I applaud brands that are trying to make products in line with a certain degree of social and environmentally-conscious ethos, and I also think it’s encouraging that brands like H&M that have a big following in the current marketplace have sustainability targets to tighten the ethics in their supply chain. The thing about advertising though, is that it is still king in the world of fashion, and where in the good ol’ days we mostly consumed it in print media on face value, getting all ga-ga over colourful things and bold print, nowadays, we prefer to consume advertising digitally, in accordance with the brand’s values and your personal style, influenced by browsing data analytics that match you to the diverse world of fashion and style as we know it. So let’s just say you come across brands that have popped up in your feed, wanting to provide an ‘alternative’ product to consume, because mass-produced fashionable items are bad. How do you tell if this is not pure greenwashing? Good question. What a confusing state we are left in, right? My work focuses on footprint labelling on clothing, which, I liken to the ingredient labels on your food. For example, an easy-to-follow icon system that tells you the water, land, chemical, greenhouse gas and social footprint of the item, and some extra information like certification to an organic standard. I don’t think this is going to happen anytime soon, so in the meantime, I’ll break down the terms currently making alternative headlines for you. I’ll try my best to make this as easy to consume as possible (ha ha! See what I did there?), but I can’t promise you’ll not spend time sifting through the ethical claims on the labels you come across. Just know that this is the very first step of starting to be a conscientious consumer. Think about it as a building-block hunt. You’re on a mission to find the recipe to what your items of clothing is made of. Disclaimer: I’ve broken this down in accordance to what I think is appropriate and accurate, based on so much literature and purely my own experiences. Ready!? Good luck!  The definition of conscientious, as provided by Google.
 Should all care labels look like this? (Image source: project_stopshop) Once you start you’ll never go back Ok, so now you’re somewhat of a whizz at this. At the end of the day, if you did really want to make the switch to consume ethical fashion, beware that there’s actually more to the scene than what I’ve put up here. There are other voluntary accreditations and industry standards for all sorts of different things, like whether the company has committed to become a transparent company, or has their claim for organic cotton verified by an independent agency, whether they have pledged not to use Uzbek cotton (which is known to have unresolved child labour issues), whether they are part of a group that wants to pay a living wage instead of a minimum wage set by a country, whether the wool they source is accredited to the Responsible Wool Standard, whether their factories have 100% environmental compliance, and lots, lots more! I will continue to go through some of the terms that are being used in Sustainable Fashion to further educate and spread awareness, but I think I’ve given you enough of a headache for now. Told you we need better labels! Feel free to add your take on the definitions I’ve provided above in the comments below, and if you have any questions, please get in touch! I’d be more than happy to help. Join us in our Slow Fashion movement with the hashtags #ConscientiousFashionista and #wardrobetruths on Instagram, and follow us at @fashinfidelity.
Tags: #ethicalfashion #sustainablefashion #ecofashion #greenfashion #responsiblefashion #circularfashion #circularity #organic #vegan #renewable #bamboo #reclaimedfashion #repurposedfashion #recycledfashion #upcycledfashion #plasticforfabric #buzzwords #conscientiousfashionista #fastfashion #slowfashion #sustainability #wardrobetruths #fashioneducation #fashionisnolongertrendy #fashion #saynotofastfashion #kualalumpur #australia #malaysia  Shop 'til you drop. (Photo: Kevin Grieve via Unsplash.com) This is a little story about the search for joy and happiness, that some of us can perhaps relate to…. and how I came to understand what fast fashion truly means. 2673 words; 13 minute read Updated 7 Dec 2018 The fear of losing a bargain There was a time when one would queue up in the early hours of the morning in front of Myer Bourke Street Mall in Melbourne or David Jones Pitt Street Mall in Sydney for the Boxing Day sales to be first in line to ‘grab the biggest bargain of the year.’ For those less interested in the shopping, the day provided the rush of experiencing a relentless stampede of shoppers. Which is interesting, because, stampede is defined by Cambridge Dictionary as: “an occasion when many large animals or many people suddenly all move quickly and in an uncontrolled way, usually in the same direction at the same time, especially because of fear.” What fear are these humans running from, exactly? The perceived fear that you’re going to ‘miss out’ on a massive discount, to put it simply. Fair enough, because who doesn’t love a bargain? Sure, there are things worth waiting for – for example, a designer dress that you’ve been eyeing for your sister’s wedding, a new-beaute TV and surround-sound system, a really nice duvet set, and well-tailored business shirts for work. But joining the throngs of strangers on this occasion, some with purpose, yes, but most with none – likely with the intention to buy clothes** (see graph below) that was not on a particular ‘shopping list’ – is a bit like going to the casino to see if you’ll strike some luck without having done any of the homework, just because you got some cash to burn this month, and for the novelty of stepping into a nice, well-appointed building where you might get some free peanuts and Mentos at the bar.  Australians spent AU$20.4 billion on fashion in 2016. Source: ASIC's MoneySmart. Now ladies – some of you can relate to this, surely: After spending a good hour or two in Myer, you go across the road to check out some of the earthly delights on offer outside of the big department stores – specifically at places like Cotton On, Dotti, Forever 21, Glassons, Topshop and H&M, because you know in your hearts of hearts there must be bargain bins ready to go overflowing with cheap stuff! Your inner voice does a conversation in your head and it says “I’ll able to score a top for less than $5 at Cotton On!” It was so fun looking through all the range of fashion on offer, rack upon racks of them, and because you didn’t have to get to anywhere, the day was solely meant for finding something really cool to add to your wardrobe. You found some new sunnies, several tops, a couple of dresses and skirts, a pair of so-in-right-now shorts, and accessories that were super affordable. They were fashionable items that you have seen other people and celebrities wear. You go home from that day’s shopping escapade feeling utterly content, and cool down from the adrenaline rush of the the city’s sights and sounds, before realising you’re emotionally quite exhausted at this point – you know, all those people today! Which is okay though, because all that hunting down a great bargain has paid off as you look at the many carry bags you’ve plopped on the dining table. You can’t wait to lay your purchases out on your bed, for the inevitable ceremony that is taking the tags off. After the rush Later on, during the next few weeks, as you stroll past a few shops when you’re out grocery shopping or taking part in summer activities with your friends and family, you can’t help but walk into a store or two and browse around other bargain bins you can spot from the corner of your eye – at the chemist, fashion outlets, stationary shops, and shoe stores. It’s at this time that the rush of finding clothes or cosmetics in a discounted bin, to snatch bargains for very cheap, have become unamusing and feels a bit like a chore. You can’t find anything that is worth your hard-earned money, plus, you’ve spent a bit on Christmas presents. You also begin to realise that you regret some of the items that you bought at the Boxing Day sales and you had better stop looking out for ‘bargains’ for the next month or two – you realise you had acquired some items that didn’t look that great on you, anyway, and you haven’t found the right occasion to wear them yet. That joy of a feeling from all your shopping, and all the hype surrounding it, has now completely worn off and you’re ready to get back into the routine of life, as you were. This goes on for six months until we get to the End of Financial Year sales, where a little voice in you whispers a thought that says, “…it wouldn’t hurt to do a bit of window shopping over the weekend.” Yes, once upon a time, we look forward to the big sales and we get lucky on some stuff.  The joy of Christmas at Myer, Bourke Street Mall, Melbourne (Source: Inside Retail) You and your overflowing wardrobe But, as it turns out, you don’t have to go into town to do your shopping anymore. As the advent of e-commerce is taking a hold within our lives – specifically, in our living rooms, bedrooms, trains, and work lunches, the big rush you feel from snatching a big bargain at the end of the year seems to now happen on a more regular basis, as things are on sale – quite literally – everyday! This way we appease our inner, almost carnal satisfaction that comes from spending $7 here, and $20 there (which probably won’t affect the bank balance that particular week.) So, you’re now the owner of a fabulous wardrobe! You have all kinds of pieces, from luxe loungewear to (lots of) flirty dresses to funky leggings to statement tees to oversized cardigans to a number of slightly weird high-waisted pants in bold print. They don’t all match a style aesthetic; they’re just a mixed bag of awesome pieces that all stand up to their individual selves. Most days though, looking through your overflowing wardrobe, some with clothes with their swing tags still attached, you run into this problem of not having anything to wear. Wait, what? With all the fabulous clothes you have in your drawers? As you grow older, and you earn a little bit money, you realise you can spend your money on things that you actually really enjoy, like going out to movies, subscribing to a monthly book club, dining at a nice restaurant with friends, and indulging in a really cool sound system (because, wine and cheese parties.) As a matter of fact, you can’t fit into some of these clothing items you treasure so much. You want to give them away but understand not everyone can pull off a crop top with a miniskirt, and if they did, you hark back to the times when you recognise the ‘look’ – it’s a little outdated now. Over the course of two seconds, a thought bubble entered your head that said, “what was I thinking?” You wouldn’t do that to your young niece. You look at the fabric and it just doesn’t look appealing. The quality is clearly lacking. No one would want this. Not even Vinnies. Yeah, we’ve all been through this phase. (I sincerely hope?) The only items that have stood the test of time are some of the classic items in mum’s wardrobe. The thick wool trenchcoat she has had for years. The blazer that always looks good on her, whatever she pairs it with! A knitted ribbed vest that was handed down by grandma. You start questioning, why can’t I find clothes like that anymore? If you’ve been reading my blogposts, you know how this story unfolds. It’s time we look at how we wear clothes now…. we need to consume fashion differently.  Online shopping is such a blessing! (Photo: David Lezcano via Unsplash.com) The science of happiness Science actually says that people do experience a momentary and fleeting ‘happiness’ when they make material purchases. But alas, the keyword here is ‘momentary.’ A quick search on the web of ‘what makes you happy?’ returned popular articles that all point to one thing: life experiences make us happy, not things. Which is true, but here’s more: Products or material things can make us happy, but only if they are related to an experience. Makes sense, right? A 2014 study published in the Journal of Consumer Psychology found that products that helped buyers create an experience – the so-called “experiential purchases” – were as good at providing happiness as life experiences. An object like a bicycle or a book can provide a lifetime of valuable experiences. The same researchers also found that people were happier if they spent on things that matched their personality; didn’t matter if was material or not. For example, an outgoing person would love to blow his cash at a pub, but a more introverted person is likely to be happier spending that kind of money on books. In a recent TedX talk however, Harvard professor Robert Waldinger, the head of the longest study on happiness in history, states the secret to happiness, regardless of socioeconomic status, has been found to be connection with other people. Interesting. So I guess you could say what really made you happy during those mall shopping sprees was the fact that you were spending time with your best friend, right? ;-)  Spending time with my family makes me happy. L-R: Sarah, Ning, and me. (Photo: Brisbane, May 2018.) My 20-something year-old self didn’t understand Millennials (for the purpose of this post, that’s me, but I relate more to a subset generation called Xennials), or Generation Y, represent an estimated $2.45 trillion in spending power and have overtaken Baby Boomers as the largest, most influential group in terms of consuming and employment. (I’m not discounting men as a sub segment here either, because menswear is outpacing womenswear in growth, with males actually shopping more than females online.) When I was in my twenties, I didn’t know that girls aged 18-24 in developing nations were (and still are) the ones who cut, sew and trim 80% of the world’s clothes, that inversely, people in the same age group were frantically buying in developed countries. Crazy, right? We've entered a new era of #consumption (or, as you may recognise as 'fashion') where we can now 'design' styles inspired by the runway and hang garments in a shop rail in as quick as three weeks. So-called style trends followed, once we kept up with more carbon copy production and consumers started purchasing and wearing the same pieces. Throw in smaller production batches at dizzying rates, the average consumer is tricked into thinking affordable fashion will be gone forever if you don't snatch it *now*. Harvard researchers have described this drives a sort of hunger... 'a sense of tantalising exclusivity.' We've created a monster, and millenials had given the monster its arms and legs. Remember that stampede we imagined earlier? It’s pretty ugly, isn’t it?  Time to repent Now that we’re a little wiser, it’s time we stand up to the lies we have been told: that somehow happiness can be purchased – often at a price that doesn’t reflect the effort, environmental impact, and materials that went in to produce the garment. Don't worry about the 'trends.' This is probably the number one advice I’d spruike on the streets today whenever I see young girls frequenting Forever 21. Why be a follower, when you can stand out on your own? It’s best to create your own magical style, I say! And then I’d emphasise: Happiness can’t be bought, despite the messages we see every day claiming otherwise. (Think aggressive advertising and ‘testimonials’ you find so often on the web these days while browsing or using social media.) No, my younger self didn’t understand any of this. But that’s normal. I guess if I were to impart wisdom on how I could have justified spending my hard-earned wages, it would be to do something like taking my family to a fun activity, or gifting a theatre/football membership package as a birthday present to myself, or investing in a good camera or laptop, or going to watch my favourite musician live with my closest mates. So the story goes that I had repented for many years now, as I realised style trumps any trend in fashion, full stop. I haven’t bought new clothes since November 2016. I’m embracing my body and my personal style. I only buy intentionally, and serve a function. Kids nowadays are smart! Gen Zed kids seem to know all this. As I embarked on my business strategy this past year, I’ve had so many voices of support from young friends and family who seem to just…. ‘get it’. The literature is universally agreeable on the fact that Gen Zeds are concerned about big companies and monopolies. They know we have big problems like global warming, international terrorism and resource scarcity that were left behind from previous generations. They’re more optimistic about the future as they use technology (augmented reality, virtual reality, artificial intelligence), more than ever, to solve problems. Yes, they’re more likely to build the foundations to tackle the challenges, create collective movements, and rally change – themselves. They don’t wait for change and innovation. Gen Zeds are more careful about money than Millennials, for example, and are more risk-averse when it comes to things like drugs, alcohol and sex. They’re concerned about the environment, and more inclusive and accepting of diversity. They are totally disrupting education already, and the way teens and adults learn. They understand the need to live a lifestyle lighter than their parents, and care for their health and animals.   The lure of (Homogenous) Fast Fashion is still hard to resist among Millenials and Gen Zeds (Source: FashionNova.com) What the future holds Fast Fashion is certainly not dead – yet – as evidenced by the rise of Fashion Nova, the latest player in the e-retailing space and the profit books of Missguided, Boohoo, and ASOS. The conundrum remains however: with more advanced e-commerce capabilities and personalised and direct marketing that keeps getting better everyday, will Gen Zeds put their money where their mouth is and wholeheartedly reject fast fashion? Will they favour homegrown, local labels that emphasises on ethical sourcing practices, capsule or evergreen collections, and responsible labour? Only time will tell. What you can do now Yes, admittedly, we have a generational shift that’s coming along quite swimmingly with regards to consuming fashion, but actually – we all can start shifting our mind game now. if you’re thinking of taking the plunge, follow my my top tips to curb your unnecessary shopping enthusiasm
Some of the actions on this list may be difficult to do, but as the case with anything that’s difficult, the pay off is often beautiful. In this case, you are no longer part of the problem, but proudly part of the solution to a better future. Have you come to the realisation that true happiness is not found in discounted bins, yet? I’d love for you to share your stories with me :-) Join us in our Slow Fashion movement with the hashtag #ConscientiousFashionista and #wardrobetruths on Instagram, and follow us at @fashinfidelity. Tags: #createyourtrend #styleoverfashion #liberation #freeyourself #fashion #fastfashion #slowfashion #ethicalfashion #responsiblefashion #sustainablefashion #intentionalpurchasing #fashioneducation #wardrobetruths #conscientiousfashionista #whomademyclothes #fashionisnolongertrendy References:
 Garment factory workers stitching up, sewing and moulding Ronaldo's football boots in place don't earn a living wage in their respective countries. FOUL PLAY IN GARMENT FACTORIES: You think Nike doesn’t exploit workers anymore? Think again. Germany may be repeat World Cup champions in football history, but shunning responsibility for your supply chain (again) can’t be a record you can be proud of. 1298 words; 6.5 min read. Remember the controversy Nike was embroiled in in 1992? For those of us lucky enough to have grown up adoring Radiohead or banging our heads to Alanis Morrisette’s Ironic, we were also lucky to have been introduced to the term ‘sweatshops’, and in this case, there literally were dozens of them, in Indonesia, filled with human labour, mostly women, but also children, working under terrible conditions – making, moulding, and sewing your Nike runners into place. The thing is, since that time, bar increasing monitoring and auditing their factories, and notwithstanding efforts to clean up their image by publishing a detailed report of labour conditions in Nike factories (including publishing them), the problem never went away. It’s still there, but it comes in different variations, according to a recent report authored by Clean Clothes Campaign (CCC) and Éthique sur l’étiquette. In matters of labour violations, responsible companies need to keep looking out for them in any situation or country at risk, be nimble enough to adjust their payment and employment model, and become part of the solution to ensure fair and equitable sharing of prosperity. Sounds like companies have been light-footed enough: apparently, Nike and Adidas have slowly moved most of their sourcing to Indonesia, Cambodia and Vietnam over the years (not just shoes, but clothing too), where wages are lower and labour abuses are rife. The 2018 report by CCC and Éthique sur l’étiquette, a follow up report of the same content from two years ago, highlights that although Nike and Adidas are spending more money than ever on sponsorships and marketing, working conditions for the individuals that make their products remain shaky. For example, comparing the current production costs of Nike and Adidas sports shoes with those from 25 years ago, when the initial sweatshop scandal broke, the worker’s share of the price of each pair shoes sold has dropped by 30 percent. "These businesses are quick to increase profits by shifting their manufacturing to lower-cost countries, but won’t share in any of that wealth with their workers". Shifting to lower production hubs has been a trend for many sportswear companies at the back of continued increases in labour costs in China. However, these countries are reporting an increase in human rights violations and garment workers’ average salaries are between 45 percent and 65 percent below the living wage, leaving workers with largely insufficient funds to provide for their families’ basic needs, thereby trapping them in extreme poverty. For example, in Indonesia, where 80 percent of garment workers are women, most workers earn between 82 euros and 200 euros a month. This does not even cover the basic needs to live a decent life according to calculations from the Asia Floor Wage, who estimates a living wage to amount to 363 euros (570 AUS dollars, or 1,863 Malaysian ringgits.) Due to this, the Clean Clothes Campaign has challenged sportswear and fitness labels like Nike and Adidas to ensure workers in their Asian supplier factories are paid a fair wage as their share of the production cost dwindles. Both Nike and Adidas are collectively kitting out 22 of the 32 teams going against each other at the 2018 Russian World Cup, which started last week.  Millions will cheer football players over the next few weeks, but the workers who make their team jerseys and football boots have been left on the sidelines. Photo: Sam Wermut via Unsplash.com. The not-for-profit organisations are also calling on Nike and Adidas, and all sportswear brands, to create a time-bound roadmap with targets to guarantee the payment of a living wage earned in a standard working week, adopt more responsible purchasing practices to enable the payment of living wages and publish the actual monthly wages of the workers in its supplier factories, as well as the results of their social audits. In summary, they are urging Nike and Adidas to make good on their promises made to unions and civil society, as well as to the Indonesian government, made in 2011, to address job security and living wages. Both Nike and Adidas have succeeded in yielding impressive growth for their shareholders over the past decade. These businesses are quick to increase profits by shifting their manufacturing to lower-cost countries, but won’t share in any of that wealth with their workers. Sounds like the term ‘slave labour’ just got redefined over time, but never really died. "[Nike and Adidas] are, technically speaking, within a game’s reach to change the world for good. And what better way to do this than in the spirit of the multicultural camaraderie of the most celebrated international sport in the world?" Anyone reckons some of the star football players are overpaid and overpriced? Well, you’re not wrong there, because even though both Nike and Adidas generate sufficient revenue to be able to pay living wages to all of their workers that stitch and sew, they chose to spend their money on football sponsorships instead. Over the past few decades, Nike and Adidas budgets for marketing and sponsorships have doubled in value. In a record-breaking new contract, the German football team is set to receive 65 million euros (75 million USD; 102 million AUD) per year from Adidas until the next World Cup, which is three times as much they previously received under the previous contract which expires this year. The French national football team negotiated a deal for a 50.5 million euro sponsorship with sports giant Nike. Millions will cheer football players over the next few weeks, but the workers who make their team jerseys and football boots have been left on the sidelines.  Adidas will kit out 12 teams in the 2018 World Cup, while Nike kits out 10. And who can forget the lifetime sponsorship deal struck by Nike and Ronaldo, back in 2016? It's worth almost 1 billion USD. And that's only sportswear sponsorship, which doesn't include his other endorsements and earnings from football! On average, your Indonesian garment worker earns 210 USD (844 Malaysian ringgits) per month. Ronaldo: a staggering 7.75 million USD (31 million Malaysian ringgits – based on his earnings of 93 million USD in 2017.) The next time you’re feeling excited about your favourite football team or player, perhaps be a little adventurous and highlight this unresolved issue with them. Write to the football team or footballer that you support (snail mail, Instagram, Twitter, Facebook), and ask them to raise this issue with Nike or Adidas, or whichever company is sponsoring them. They are, technically speaking, within a game’s reach to change the world for good. And what better way to do this than in the spirit of the multicultural camaraderie of the most celebrated international sport in the world? Personally, I’d love for our local clubs (district/university) to step up to the challenge. You don’t have to stop at celebrities, though. Have a chat with your coach at school about who makes your sportswear, and find a way to talk about it with your friends while enjoying some of the World Cup matches. Who knows, you could be a force of change for good, too. All the best to the teams competing! Clean Clothes Campaign brings together trade unions and NGOs covering a broad spectrum of perspectives and interests, such as women’s rights, consumer advocacy and poverty reduction. Read the report, Foul Play, here. Join us in our Slow Fashion movement with the hashtag #ConscientiousFashionista and #wardrobetruths on Instagram, and follow us at @fashinfidelity. Tags: #soccer #football #worldcup2018 #worldcup #russiaworldcup #nike #adidas #garmentworkers #foulplay #cleanclothescampaign #fairwages #conscientiousfashionista #fastfashion #slowfashion #ethicalfashion #ecofashion #sustainablefashion #greenfashion #sustainability #wardrobetruths #fashioneducation #fashionisnolongertrendy #fashion #saynotofastfashion #kualalumpur #australia #malaysia #russia Further reading:
Plastic for Fabric (yeah, it's a thing) - Happy World Environment Day and World Oceans Day!5/6/2018  Adidas x Parley collection of high-performance shoes, made with reclaimed polyester yarn from ocean pollution waste (Source: Adidas) This year India hosts World Environment Day (WED), which takes place on June 5, 2018. “Beat Plastic Pollution”, the theme for World Environment Day 2018, urges governments, industry, communities, and individuals to come together and explore sustainable alternatives and urgently reduce the production and excessive use of single-use plastic polluting our oceans, damaging marine life and threatening human health. 1896 words; 9 min read Updated 2 October 2018 It’s also World Oceans Week (4-8 June) and the WED theme ties in very much with World Oceans Day, 8 June, who wants us to think about “Preventing plastic pollution and encouraging solutions for a healthy ocean.” Best thing since sliced bread Plastic has been a part of our daily lives because they are so durable. Which is great, but inversely, makes them a persistent force to be reckoned with in our environment, and more importantly our oceans – once discarded. We’ve known for a while that bulk plastics are polluting the oceans. Converging sea currents are accumulating plastic waste in a floating island known as the Great Pacific Garbage Patch, which now covers an area larger than Greenland. The bigger bits of plastic such as nets and water bottles are life-threatening to marine life and sea birds. They can strangle marine mammals or birds and build up in their stomachs and guts. And, if plastic pollution continues at the same rate that we are seeing now, the oceans will contain more plastic than fish by 2050.  Infographic on plastic ocean pollution (Source: Ocean Conservancy) More recently, awareness of microplastics has raised concern about their ever-present presence in the food chain. Our oceans are under threat Oceans cover 72% of the Earth, supply 70% of the oxygen we breathe, holds 97% of the planet’s water, and lock away 30% of carbon emissions. But it is apparent that our oceans are under threat and we need to move onto action on plastic – now. Plastic makes up 10% of all of the waste we generate so it is only natural that a lot of individuals, organisations, communities and governments are finding ways to repurpose plastics into new materials and incorporate them into the raw material supply chain. Single-use plastic bags and water bottles that are PET (polyethyleneterephthalate) can now be used for so many purposes – turning them into fabric, hardened resin that become car parts, decking, and even furniture. Seeing plastic floating in our oceans and littered on our beaches is not a pretty sight, either. With so much plastic rubbish around us, no wonder there are many clean up initiatives happening around the globe to rid our oceans of them. Plastic for Fabric One of the ways we can support #sustainable #fashion is to encourage the promotion of plastic as a raw material in clothing. Patagonia started making recycled polyester from plastic soda bottles in 1993 – the first outdoor clothing manufacturer to transform trash into fleece.  How Patagonia makes their Polarfleece out of plastic soda bottles (Source: Patagonia) A breakdown of the process is described below:
A bit of trivia here: polyethylene terephthalate ester … shortened version? Polyester. The Changemakers If you are serious about plastic’s impact on the planet and what you can do about it, you can start with supporting the continuous use of beyond its initial intended purpose. Below are some of the #changemakers in this space. Watch out for them and catch up on the latest technology by checking them out! Manufacturers and suppliers of yarn and fabric
One of the ways we can support #sustainable #fashion is to encourage the promotion of plastic as a raw material in clothing. Brands that take pride in their sustainable materials as a raw product
Organisations and communities that are working with the plastic problem and doing good things in general
 Plastic pollutants are now being salvaged to become raw materials to produce clothing yarn and at the same time, clean up our rivers and oceans! (Source: DutchScenery/ Shutterstock) Events
Take action on plastic In line with the ever-growing theme of reducing plastic pollution, the most important thing you can do to be part of the movement is to avoid single-use plastics at all costs. In Malaysia, I find the use of single-use plastics is just rampant, for example – when you go to the night markets, you will easily accumulate ten small plastic bags that is supposed to carry each of your food items, and those food items are already placed in one-off plastic containers; most of them are not the recyclable type. The easiest thing you can do is carry a backpack or basket for your items, and try bring your own reusable containers for food and drink. People look at me funny when I bring my own plastic containers from home, but I don’t care. I carry my own reusable water bottle and coffee cup everywhere, so it’s just a natural extension. You can say no to plastic straws, spoons and forks. I always have a reusable cutlery set in my bag, and as for the straws – just drink straight from the glass or bottle! People look at me funny when I bring my own plastic containers from home, but I don’t care. I carry my own reusable water bottle and coffee cup everywhere, so it’s just a natural extension. In terms of clothing, if you did find an item that is made from ‘reclaimed polyester yarn’, ask the fashion brand whether the yarn used was from 100% reclaimed plastic or has it been mixed with fresh plastics, too. Try to have a conversation about why and why not – sometimes products are limited by functionality and engineering. Still, challenge them with your desire to make a difference. Brands want to know if they’re doing enough – so don’t be shy on your feedback! But will we ever get rid of plastic trash? One of the things I get asked is whether #PlasticforFabric will take off in a really big way and then we’re left with no plastic waste in the ocean, or on land waiting to be recycled. The honest truth is, it’ll be a while yet until that happens. We haven’t cleaned up our oceans and land environments enough to start with. Therefore, using the circularity model which I have mentioned in my earlier posts, re-purposing plastic as a raw material is one the best ways we can start to close the loop on waste. Yes, we firstly need to design out the waste in all of our supply chain applications, but at the end of the product’s life, once thrown away, there are ways where we can get them back into the top of the chain many times over. Reclaiming plastic is not a new idea, by the way – we’ve been recycling hard and soft plastics such as used water pipes, ink cartridges, plastic film, and shopping bags, for years! – These have been re-born into office stationary, roadside kerbs, benches, food containers, jewellery, lamps, wheelie bins, and so much more!  Stella McCartney has incorporated reclaimed plastics in her Ready-to-Wear collections, and has a sustainability ethos not seen in other high fashion brands. (Source: Vogue.com) Another thing to remember is plastic is made out of oil, a non-renewable resource. Now that we’ve already extracted that resource we may as well re-use it as much as we can. Can you commit to doing one thing to avoid single-use plastics today? Good luck! And do you know of a brand or enterprise that is doing a lot in the reclaimed plastics space? I’d love to hear from you. Join us in our Slow Fashion movement with the hashtag #ConscientiousFashionista and #wardrobetruths on Instagram, and follow us at @fashinfidelity. Tags: #WED2018 #WorldEnvironmentDay #WorldOceansDay #conscientiousfashionista #fastfashion #slowfashion #ethicalfashion #ecofashion #sustainablefashion #greenfashion #sustainability #wardrobetruths #fashioneducation #fashionisnolongertrendy #fashion #wardrobetruths #saynotofastfashion #kualalumpur #Australia #Malaysia #PlasticforFabric  Me wearing a Country Road dress that I've owned for many, many years - and not afraid to wear more than once, for multiple social media postings! Country Road is part of Woolworths Holdings Limited (WHL) South Africa, who has been on their Good Business Journey since 2007. Before #organic food became a trend, did you ever think about chemicals in your veggies? Before eggs were labelled "cage-free", did anyone wonder about the well-being of the hens? Before cars had fuel-efficiency stickers and carbon emissions information on their windscreens at the dealership, did you consider these as a purchasing factor? Before we had fluorescent lightbulbs, did you understand the relationship between wattage and power consumption? The point I'm trying to make is, the industry – or let's just call it, the #apparel or #clothing industry, has been slow to catch up with the realities of the world. We live in the 21st century now. We are proud to announce the origins of the wood in our furniture, our whitegoods and electronic goods come with energy or water consumption labelling, and we know halogen lights suck power like there's no tomorrow (you can switch them for LED ones that maintain the aesthetics – way more efficient.) Today, when we buy a piece of clothing, there is no label that says exactly what raw materials, resources, and labour had gone into making it. I reckon it's about time they exist. Valentino and Karl (Lagerfeld)In 2010, I stumbled upon the documentary Valentino: The Last Emperor. I remembered the fashion house designer was stressed about his latest collection, one of his last before he retires. We see him hurrying his seamstresses to meet deadlines for this very important fashion show to commemorate his 45th anniversary in fashion. I remember thinking, what will happen to all the beautiful fresh flowers and decorations adorning the event venue? What shocked me the most was the fact that Valentino would jet-set from one fashion show to another, bringing the same dresses on his private plane. Today, when we buy a piece of clothing, there is no label that says exactly what raw materials, resources, and labour had gone into making it. I reckon it's about time they exist. It opened my eyes to how wasteful this industry is. The clothes themselves are painstakingly made once, for the runway, and this in itself was not excessive. (Even if you might argue it's incredibly pedantic.) The process valued the artisans, the heritage, the skills that came with sewing, stitching and beading and the way the fabrics fell on the floor. But the glitz and glamour and the excess of the shows themselves were not cool. I even remembered how the guests received a goodie bag each filled with expensive items. My head was sore from shaking so much! But why? These people are rich, and they can afford to buy their own nice things! My brain started to wander.  The True Cost (2015) is a documentary about the clothes we wear, the people who made them, and the impacts it's having on our world. I Woke UpIn May 2011, one of my closest friends, Rebecca Jean Wright, died from a horrific car accident. I saw her three days prior to her death, and wrote to her just the night before. (She died on a Wednesday morning on the way to work.) In February 2012, I moved to Perth from Melbourne, with my then boyfriend, seeking a new life. In 2013, something big was brewing inside of me. I was unhappy in my relationship and my job. In April, the Rana Plaza Collapse happened. I'm sure there were other disasters that commanded the news that year, but for me, this was big, and it was heartbreaking. On Valentine's Day 2014, I told my boyfriend I wanted to end our relationship. We were discussing options of relocating to the UK, because he had been made redundant in his job. This was the opportunity to do something with my life, I thought. So, I went crazy on Twitter and started checking out the scene. I spammed a few Twitter profiles I found, and guess what? One of them, Lucy Siegle, asked me to email her. This is what I wrote: The crazier thing was, Lucy wrote back! But there was more – she had actually wrote a book about all the things that was bothering me about fashion, no joke! It's called "To Die For – Is Fashion Wearing Out the World?", published in 2011. I won't go into the details of it, but in 2016, Deconstructing My Wardrobe was born. Suffice to say, I did not move to the UK, nor did my boyfriend and I ended up staying together. But the passion for something else – solving problems in fashion – was definitely burning bright.  #FashRev Manifesto, launched 23 April 2018 Frustration starts thingsI started Deconstructing My Wardrobe because I got frustrated with the lack of information I was going to get when shopping for clothes. (Yeah, you heard me right. I anticipated this every time I entered a shopping centre. I even stopped window shopping. I knew I was not going to get what I wanted once I walked into a store and flicked through the item that caught my eye, after having looked at its price and material.) I got frustrated that I had to do all the work. I was frustrated some of the so-called 'ethical' or 'sustainable' fashion brands from overseas would cost me an arm and a leg when you take into account the exorbitant shipping costs to Australia. The reason I am championing for environmental footprinting affixed to your item of clothing is because – it will help me make the right decisions for myself. Just as it helps me when I pick up my eggs at the market, purchasing a washing machine, choosing the right yoghurt, and investing in a car. I don't have time to curate my wardrobe. Some people do, hats off to you. Some brands don't have the styles that suit me. Some brands that I might have an affinity towards, don't have a store near me so I can try their clothes on for size. I don't have the friggin' time to do a lot of things, nowadays. We're all busy people, right? I believe that when the information is presented to us, we will take notice. Just as we took notice of our eggs, the ingredients in our food, and how we can save energy when we know what wattage meant. Style and personal taste. Ethics and personal values. These all vary so much from one individual to another and are highly ingrained. When you present us with information at point of purchase, we can make our own decisions, thankyouverymuch. The reason I am championing for environmental footprinting affixed to your item of clothing is because – it will help me make the right decisions for myself. ManifestoToday, 23 April, is the start of Fashion Revolution Week. All across the world, in more than 100 countries, #fashion lovers will be asking their favourite brands 'Who Made My Clothes?' on social media, and taking part in some of the many talks, film screenings, and clothes swaps there are to choose from in their respective cities. Fashion Revolution has also today launched their manifesto – you can read it on their website. This year is exactly five years since the devastating Rana Plaza disaster. Many of us will be looking back at how far our movement has come, and the real change that's starting to happen in the industry. I, for one, am a less frustrated person. I have many options in terms of new clothes, if I needed to buy any. (I haven't bought new clothes since November 2016.) I'm discovering new ethical and sustainable brands, everyday. They disclose information about their products. We still don't have legislation that puts a minimum requirement on mandatory environmental labelling, but #FashRev has kept pressure on the fashion industry. It will keep doing more. We will always demand, 'Who Made My Clothes?' I will still be here, fighting, and taking action. Transparency can't come soon enough.  Kuala Lumpur happeningsI'm excited to watch a screening of RiverBlue on Saturday, 28 April, hosted by Fashion Revolution Malaysia and take part in conversations with lots of people throughout the week. Check out my Instagram Highlights at @fashinfidelity to see my outfits throughout the month, as part of my campaign, Say Yes to Wearing It Twice! to support #FashRev. It's not too late to take part, too ;-) Join us in our Slow Fashion movement with the hashtag #ConscientiousFashionista and #wardrobetruths on Instagram, and follow us at @fashinfidelity.
Tags: #fashrev #fashionrevolution #haulternative #conscientiousfashionista #fastfashion #slowfashion #ethicalfashion #ecofashion #sustainablefashion #greenfashion #sustainability #wardrobetruths #fashioneducation #fashionisnolongertrendy #fashion #wardrobetruths #saynotofastfashion #kualalumpur  Fashion Revolution Week is here! |
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For centuries, animals have been used in marketing, campaigning, and activism, because animals are strong emotional triggers and are effective at supporting a narrative.
It’s no surprise that the use of imagery of animals in pain or suffering animals, partnered with clever context and messaging for Calls to Actions are effective in changing our attitudes. Graphic images, which are hard to ignore and impossible to forget, create an emotional connection to the issue it is promoting and raise ethical discussions. Just think about successful campaigns you’ve donated to or supported – carrying your own bags to the supermarket, boycott palm oil (orang utans and illegal destruction of their habitat), becoming vegan (cattle and their enormous greenhouse gas footprint), and not buying caged eggs (terrible farmed conditions for hens) – they all come from powerful imageries stuck in your mind. Coupled with other factors such as discussions with friends, watching documentaries and lifestyle shows, following in the footsteps of a celebrity you admire, and campaign actions from groups you subscribe to, it’s easy to empathise with the cause.
I have been thinking about an easily identifiable mascot or symbol for the destructive Fast Fashion industry, but no animals came to mind. Truth be told, there already exists a mascot – underpaid garment workers.
And worse – the deaths of underpaid, overused, unappreciated garment workers that worked for Fast Fashion.
The Rana Plaza collapse in Bangladesh is nearing its fifth year anniversary, where Fast Fashion’s true colours came to the fore in mass media. TV outlets covered the deadliest garment industry accident in modern history, and Fashion Revolution, a not-for-profit organisation committed to enacting genuine change on worker rights and safety, was formed. The catastrophe injured nearly 2,600 and killed more than 1,138, including rescue workers.
It’s no surprise that the use of imagery of animals in pain or suffering animals, partnered with clever context and messaging for Calls to Actions are effective in changing our attitudes. Graphic images, which are hard to ignore and impossible to forget, create an emotional connection to the issue it is promoting and raise ethical discussions. Just think about successful campaigns you’ve donated to or supported – carrying your own bags to the supermarket, boycott palm oil (orang utans and illegal destruction of their habitat), becoming vegan (cattle and their enormous greenhouse gas footprint), and not buying caged eggs (terrible farmed conditions for hens) – they all come from powerful imageries stuck in your mind. Coupled with other factors such as discussions with friends, watching documentaries and lifestyle shows, following in the footsteps of a celebrity you admire, and campaign actions from groups you subscribe to, it’s easy to empathise with the cause.
I have been thinking about an easily identifiable mascot or symbol for the destructive Fast Fashion industry, but no animals came to mind. Truth be told, there already exists a mascot – underpaid garment workers.
And worse – the deaths of underpaid, overused, unappreciated garment workers that worked for Fast Fashion.
The Rana Plaza collapse in Bangladesh is nearing its fifth year anniversary, where Fast Fashion’s true colours came to the fore in mass media. TV outlets covered the deadliest garment industry accident in modern history, and Fashion Revolution, a not-for-profit organisation committed to enacting genuine change on worker rights and safety, was formed. The catastrophe injured nearly 2,600 and killed more than 1,138, including rescue workers.
Animal mascots are effective, but humans not so
Truth be told, there already exists a mascot – underpaid garment workers. And worse - the deaths of underpaid, overused, unappreciated garment workers...
Some of the international brands implicated in the tragedy are Benetton (Italy), Bon Marche (UK), Cato Fashions (USA), The Children's Place (USA), El Corte Ingles (Spain), Joe Fresh (Loblaws, Canada), Kik (Germany), Mango (Spain), Matalan (UK), Primark (UK/Ireland) and Texman (Denmark.) The saddest thing about the tragedy was it was an avoidable one – but greed and political corruption were the order of the day instead of workers’ safety.
It seems that the pain of experiencing a fatal workplace disaster doesn’t make us question ditching Fast Fashion enough. Let’s not forget also the survivors of the Rana disaster whom are now suffering long-term disabilities that make living in Bangladesh that much harder.
It seems that the pain of experiencing a fatal workplace disaster doesn’t make us question ditching Fast Fashion enough. Let’s not forget also the survivors of the Rana disaster whom are now suffering long-term disabilities that make living in Bangladesh that much harder.
Images of animal cruelty break our hearts. Over 70% of cruelty to any animal involves dogs.
Humans can’t relate to other humans as much as we’d like
I conducted a quick poll with my friends on Facebook concerning the question of whether humans are more likely to empathise with animals or with other humans in relation to suffering and/or pain. Animals won (at the time of writing – 15 votes for animals; 10 for humans; 3 voted humans aren't capable of empathy for each other, let alone animals – *ouch*.)
But let’s go back to science quickly. We all respond differently to imagery, whether still or moving.
There are images that evoke positive emotional responses in the human brain. The most powerful are of:
Images of pain and suffering can most definitely elicit a commitment, a positive change from within an individual, or both. PETA’s (People for Ethical Treatment of Animals) controversial animal rights campaigns come into mind for example and even though they often receive mixed responses, some have been highly successful at shifting perceptions.
Having said that, graphic imagery of animals being gassed for food production won’t necessary provoke or motivate an animal-free diet and can be a complete put off for some. Inversely, a healthy image of someone who has become vegan in recent years and posts colourful Instagram-worthy photos of their food evoke positive aspiration, and might just encourage you to take that leap of faith.
But let’s go back to science quickly. We all respond differently to imagery, whether still or moving.
There are images that evoke positive emotional responses in the human brain. The most powerful are of:
- portraits (close up)
- babies
- cute animals
- inspiration / motivation
- nostalgia
- expressions of happiness
- nature.
Images of pain and suffering can most definitely elicit a commitment, a positive change from within an individual, or both. PETA’s (People for Ethical Treatment of Animals) controversial animal rights campaigns come into mind for example and even though they often receive mixed responses, some have been highly successful at shifting perceptions.
Having said that, graphic imagery of animals being gassed for food production won’t necessary provoke or motivate an animal-free diet and can be a complete put off for some. Inversely, a healthy image of someone who has become vegan in recent years and posts colourful Instagram-worthy photos of their food evoke positive aspiration, and might just encourage you to take that leap of faith.
Portraiture evoke strong emotion in human beings. Photo: Ben Konfrst via Unsplash.com
The dehumanisation of our own species
Even though some may remember what happened at Rana in 2013, we are quick to detach ourselves from its bigger social impacts.
Throughout my thirty-five years of living I haven’t been immune to numerous human plights around the world. Even though my generation read about the great wars but never experienced them, crises around the world involving children, the sick and diseased, the treatment of workers in underdeveloped countries, battles waged against others due to differences in beliefs, and rebelling of governments due to corruption and atrocities still plague our news channels.
Dehumanisation is the reason my Facebook poll result wasn’t kind towards human beings. Dehumanisation is viewed as a central component to intergroup violence because it is frequently the most important precursor to moral exclusion, the process by which stigmatised groups are placed outside the boundary in which moral values, rules, and considerations of fairness apply. David Livingstone Smith, director and founder of The Human Nature Project at the University of New England, argues that historically, human beings have been dehumanising one another for thousands of years.
News stories on TV, print and online platforms perpetuate this state and perhaps we, as humans, have come to terms with the unpleasant side of the human race. We are desensitised to human plight, whether it be basic human rights, or on social justice issues, like what a fair wage looks like for a certain occupation.
Throughout my thirty-five years of living I haven’t been immune to numerous human plights around the world. Even though my generation read about the great wars but never experienced them, crises around the world involving children, the sick and diseased, the treatment of workers in underdeveloped countries, battles waged against others due to differences in beliefs, and rebelling of governments due to corruption and atrocities still plague our news channels.
Dehumanisation is the reason my Facebook poll result wasn’t kind towards human beings. Dehumanisation is viewed as a central component to intergroup violence because it is frequently the most important precursor to moral exclusion, the process by which stigmatised groups are placed outside the boundary in which moral values, rules, and considerations of fairness apply. David Livingstone Smith, director and founder of The Human Nature Project at the University of New England, argues that historically, human beings have been dehumanising one another for thousands of years.
News stories on TV, print and online platforms perpetuate this state and perhaps we, as humans, have come to terms with the unpleasant side of the human race. We are desensitised to human plight, whether it be basic human rights, or on social justice issues, like what a fair wage looks like for a certain occupation.
Relatives of the victims stand at the site of the Rana Plaza building, in this 2015 photo. Photo: A.M. Ahad/AP
Our internal struggles for ethical consciousness
Sometimes though, we are reminded of our innate human ability to connect with others. If I may, remember when images emerged of the lifeless body of three-year-old Alan Kurdi that washed up on a beach in Turkey in September 2015? It evoked a public response like no other, because here was an innocent and helpless child, a victim of adults dehumanising each other – in this case, the Syrian civil war had erupted four years earlier.
Two-and-a-half years on, we had forgotten that that particular photograph shocked world leaders into action on the refugee crisis.
And what about the media’s role in advancing ethics? Stories of little, or even big wins in the defence of the environment, fights for human rights, and government corruption crackdowns don’t get as much coverage in the mainstream news. It’s easy to conclude that one person, as in, YOU – can’t possibly play a role in the aftermath of Alan’s fate.
I’m no psychologist, but this incapability to prevent Alan's death really does make us despise the human race most days! We can empathise with the stories of the refugees but can never fully understand it. (Unless you were born in a war-town country.)
Two-and-a-half years on, we had forgotten that that particular photograph shocked world leaders into action on the refugee crisis.
And what about the media’s role in advancing ethics? Stories of little, or even big wins in the defence of the environment, fights for human rights, and government corruption crackdowns don’t get as much coverage in the mainstream news. It’s easy to conclude that one person, as in, YOU – can’t possibly play a role in the aftermath of Alan’s fate.
I’m no psychologist, but this incapability to prevent Alan's death really does make us despise the human race most days! We can empathise with the stories of the refugees but can never fully understand it. (Unless you were born in a war-town country.)
Stories of little, or even big wins in the defence of the environment, fights for human rights, and government corruption crackdowns don’t get as much coverage in the mainstream news.
Humans are evil
For the one day that you are empowered enough to contribute to a cause and take action, there will be many more days where there are so many crises involving injustices in this world that seem out of reach and unsolvable for the average person. Let’s not kid ourselves. This feeling of powerlessness to enact change affects all of us, especially if we are not located anywhere near the crisis – regardless of whether you are a citizen of a First World Country (i.e. generally privileged) or not. In my case, Australia is so far from Europe. The best I could do was to lobby the government (through campaigns by Getup!, a not-for-profit movement and other similar organisations) to take in more Syrian refugees into the country – bar packing my bags, leaving my job and get on a plane headed to the Mediterranean to do something.
I have likened this conflict of personal ethics to this realisation: It’s about what is feasibly under your sphere of influence, and what is not. International, different time-zone, another continent-type crises are too displaced for even our hearts to reach out to, and even though we love the thought of being ‘citizens of the world’ (for example, when it comes to holidays and vacations), we shy away from that notion when it comes to helping other people.
I have likened this conflict of personal ethics to this realisation: It’s about what is feasibly under your sphere of influence, and what is not. International, different time-zone, another continent-type crises are too displaced for even our hearts to reach out to, and even though we love the thought of being ‘citizens of the world’ (for example, when it comes to holidays and vacations), we shy away from that notion when it comes to helping other people.
Polar bears are the poster child of the effects of climate change. Photo: Mario Hoppmann/imaggeo.egu.eu
We need break it down in human scale..
There is a reasonable explanation for all this: distance. It is a significant barrier for even the most well-meaning of us, and time again we let the news stories run, we listen, and we get on with dinner.
As someone who has worked in the environment sector all my career, I have also accepted the fact that the terms climate change and global warming are so damn unappealing. The reason why it is hard for people to relate to understanding how the climate works is because geologic time scales are long – too long for the human mind to really comprehend. “Over tens... and hundreds of millions of years, the Earth has changed from something unrecognisable to the planet we see on maps, plastic globes, and photos from space”, as Peter Gleick, internationally recognised climate and water expert, explains here. For a large percentage of the Earth’s age, there exists no USA, California, Australia, China, or Mount Everest. Humans cannot relate to these changes. Our perception of time is short – measured in days, months, years, or decades, not millennia or eons (Google it.) And our perception of the world around us is similarly driven by events with human time scales. It’s hard enough to think about what I’ll get up to this weekend, let alone how the planet will look like from outer space in two-hundred years. Heck, when I talk to my younger siblings about the importance of retirement savings, they laugh! Because they don’t think being sixty-five years old is even possible right now.
One of the ways humans relate is symbols and mascots, something that represents a complex issue but conveyed at a level that is easy to grasp. In the fight against climate change, who can forget this heart-wrenching video that went viral of a polar bear clinging to life in Canada’s Baffin Islands?
The thing is, all suffering is terrible. It’s now easy to see what transpired from my Facebook poll of human empathy towards animals. The emotive theory pretty much got decoded, in human scale. (Ooohhh……. snap!)
As someone who has worked in the environment sector all my career, I have also accepted the fact that the terms climate change and global warming are so damn unappealing. The reason why it is hard for people to relate to understanding how the climate works is because geologic time scales are long – too long for the human mind to really comprehend. “Over tens... and hundreds of millions of years, the Earth has changed from something unrecognisable to the planet we see on maps, plastic globes, and photos from space”, as Peter Gleick, internationally recognised climate and water expert, explains here. For a large percentage of the Earth’s age, there exists no USA, California, Australia, China, or Mount Everest. Humans cannot relate to these changes. Our perception of time is short – measured in days, months, years, or decades, not millennia or eons (Google it.) And our perception of the world around us is similarly driven by events with human time scales. It’s hard enough to think about what I’ll get up to this weekend, let alone how the planet will look like from outer space in two-hundred years. Heck, when I talk to my younger siblings about the importance of retirement savings, they laugh! Because they don’t think being sixty-five years old is even possible right now.
One of the ways humans relate is symbols and mascots, something that represents a complex issue but conveyed at a level that is easy to grasp. In the fight against climate change, who can forget this heart-wrenching video that went viral of a polar bear clinging to life in Canada’s Baffin Islands?
The thing is, all suffering is terrible. It’s now easy to see what transpired from my Facebook poll of human empathy towards animals. The emotive theory pretty much got decoded, in human scale. (Ooohhh……. snap!)
For the one day that you are empowered enough to contribute to a cause and take action, there will be many more days where there are so many crises involving injustices in this world that seem out of reach and unsolvable for the average person.
It’s not hard to relate. Let’s give this another go.
This situation does not need to be completely discouraging, however.
Remember the old adage, ‘Think Global, Act Local’? Yes! This is where YOU can be an agent of change.
Every time you are faced with a problem that may seem impossible to tackle, I cannot stress how important it is that we don’t lose sight of the bigger picture. Snap yourself out of the ‘everything is too hard basket’ and re-wire your perspective. Contribute to the issue from your own sphere of influence! Because, believe me, every single human (human animal and non-human animal) legacy matters. It really does.
The phrase ‘Think Global, Act Local’ was first used in the context of environmental challenges, but has now been used in various settings, including planning, education, mathematics, and business. If you wanted to achieve change and improvement, you can’t wait for global legislation or global action. The best course of action is to drive change yourself. YOU could act to reduce YOUR OWN environmental impact by, for example, consuming less energy or water, or only buying clothes that you need (preferably second hand.) Acting locally starts to address what you see as a global issue.
Remember the old adage, ‘Think Global, Act Local’? Yes! This is where YOU can be an agent of change.
Every time you are faced with a problem that may seem impossible to tackle, I cannot stress how important it is that we don’t lose sight of the bigger picture. Snap yourself out of the ‘everything is too hard basket’ and re-wire your perspective. Contribute to the issue from your own sphere of influence! Because, believe me, every single human (human animal and non-human animal) legacy matters. It really does.
The phrase ‘Think Global, Act Local’ was first used in the context of environmental challenges, but has now been used in various settings, including planning, education, mathematics, and business. If you wanted to achieve change and improvement, you can’t wait for global legislation or global action. The best course of action is to drive change yourself. YOU could act to reduce YOUR OWN environmental impact by, for example, consuming less energy or water, or only buying clothes that you need (preferably second hand.) Acting locally starts to address what you see as a global issue.
You can relate. Start changing the world for the better at a local level. Image source: LauraTrotta.com
Every time someone forgets to turn the lights off in the office or at home, I remind them of the polar bear’s hardship to hunt for food. Any human, and any animal, needs food! You can’t argue what you saw in the video, because our unsustainable rate of energy consumption and development really is affecting them. Normal people (with feelings) can’t help but feel so sad for them. It’s an easy connection to make. Polar bear survival = turn the lights off.
Don’t forget, actions also speak louder than words. Doing what YOU do is a step closer to having OTHERS do as YOU do.
Here is a quick rundown of the really, really, simple things YOU can do now, in each of the problem areas we’ve touched on above:
Don’t forget, actions also speak louder than words. Doing what YOU do is a step closer to having OTHERS do as YOU do.
Here is a quick rundown of the really, really, simple things YOU can do now, in each of the problem areas we’ve touched on above:
- Do not support the unnecessary and cruel testing of chemicals and formulas on animals. Ditch your current beauty products once they are finished and switch to cruelty-free brands, pronto! There are so many!!! You don’t need to make a list. Every time a bottle or jar of something is finished – shampoo, conditioner, make up, body lotion, etc, you should research the brands you want to purchase next. There really are no excuses.
- Help reverse the trend of global warming. Empower women and girls in underdeveloped nations to reach for tertiary education. Try to not use your car for short distances. Eat less meat. Check out this story on 100 Practical Ways to Reverse Climate Change.
- Do not support the continuation of demand for plastic. Say no to plastic bags. Stop using plastic straws. Carry a reusable water bottle (and bring your own water!) Quit smoking.
Ditch Your Fast Fashion Habits
As for fashion, let’s not even use that word. Let’s just call it for what it is: the shirt off your back to protect you from the elements. Think about how many items of clothing is basically necessary for your wardrobe, which goes hand in hand with function.
As we commemorate the events that transpired prior, during and after the Rana Plaza disaster, may I remind you – making clothes doesn't need to have a human cost. We should all work in satisfactory conditions, get paid for a day's worth, and come home safe. The death toll was 1,138, with many more injured. That's way too many. And that doesn't include other factory fires in Bangladesh and others around the globe.
So let me tell you: if you think not buying a $10.00 top is not making an impact on the fast fashion industry, you are truly wrong. Your individual action and others who do the same are telling the world the horrid conditions these workers have to endure to make a living is unacceptable. You are avoiding THIS from happening again:
As we commemorate the events that transpired prior, during and after the Rana Plaza disaster, may I remind you – making clothes doesn't need to have a human cost. We should all work in satisfactory conditions, get paid for a day's worth, and come home safe. The death toll was 1,138, with many more injured. That's way too many. And that doesn't include other factory fires in Bangladesh and others around the globe.
So let me tell you: if you think not buying a $10.00 top is not making an impact on the fast fashion industry, you are truly wrong. Your individual action and others who do the same are telling the world the horrid conditions these workers have to endure to make a living is unacceptable. You are avoiding THIS from happening again:
Haunting photo from the Rana Plaza collapse in the May 2013 edition of TIME magazine. Photo: Taslima Akhter
I have been researching the apparel-making industry, the rise of Fast Fashion and its supply chain and ethical issues for a while now. Yes, we need clothes. But we don’t need fashion. We can look stylish however, and wear items that match our personal style, as well as feeling great in them, right?
You can achieve this. If you’re worried about price, shop second-hand or organize a clothes-swap with your friends. When I did not shop for new clothes in 2007, and then 2017, I managed fine. If I needed a wardrobe refresh, I’d go to my favourite op-shop, the North Perth Red Cross store on Fitzgerald Street. Look for pieces that match your existing wardrobe, that can be worn/layered for all seasons. For starters, as a rule, you can buy new underwear and new running or work out shoes if you’re an active person. You can accept gifts but try not to gift somebody else new clothes. There are other rules for years 2, 3, and so forth, which I’ll get to later on.
One thing that really had an impact on me was to stop subscribing to this online retail marketplace, called BrandsExclusive.com.au. I did that in 2016. Not seeing their weekly or daily specials in my inbox really helped me stay away from unnecessary spending. I highly recommend unsubscribing to most, if not all of online shopping temptations.
The solution is not to boycott clothes from certain brands, because the fashion supply chain is a complex relationship and transparency cobweb. Instead, give some thought about the price of the product, because cheap clothes = dead people (see image above.) Say no to Fast Fashion now.
When all is said and done, the solutions are within your reach, after all. Take action today. You CAN be a power of change.
You can achieve this. If you’re worried about price, shop second-hand or organize a clothes-swap with your friends. When I did not shop for new clothes in 2007, and then 2017, I managed fine. If I needed a wardrobe refresh, I’d go to my favourite op-shop, the North Perth Red Cross store on Fitzgerald Street. Look for pieces that match your existing wardrobe, that can be worn/layered for all seasons. For starters, as a rule, you can buy new underwear and new running or work out shoes if you’re an active person. You can accept gifts but try not to gift somebody else new clothes. There are other rules for years 2, 3, and so forth, which I’ll get to later on.
One thing that really had an impact on me was to stop subscribing to this online retail marketplace, called BrandsExclusive.com.au. I did that in 2016. Not seeing their weekly or daily specials in my inbox really helped me stay away from unnecessary spending. I highly recommend unsubscribing to most, if not all of online shopping temptations.
The solution is not to boycott clothes from certain brands, because the fashion supply chain is a complex relationship and transparency cobweb. Instead, give some thought about the price of the product, because cheap clothes = dead people (see image above.) Say no to Fast Fashion now.
When all is said and done, the solutions are within your reach, after all. Take action today. You CAN be a power of change.
Join us in our Slow Fashion movement with the hashtag #ConscientiousFashionista and #wardrobetruths on Instagram, and follow us at @fashinfidelity
Tags: #conscientiousfashionista #fastfashion #slowfashion #ethicalfashion #ecofashion #sustainablefashion #greenfashion #sustainability #wardrobetruths #fashioneducation #fashionisnolongertrendy #fashion #ranaplaza #bangladesh #FashionRevolution #thinkglobalactlocal
Further reading:
- Srivastava, K. and Das, R. C., “Empathy: Process of adaptation and change, is it trainable?”, Industrial Psychology Journal, India, https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5248406/ (last accessed 28 March 2018)
- "How Do Graphic Images Affect Animal Advocacy?" Striking at the Roots, https://strikingattheroots.wordpress.com/2012/11/01/how-do-graphic-images-affect-animal-advocacy/ (last accessed 28 March 2018)
- “Funny Animals”, (n. d.), in Wikipedia, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Funny_animal (last accessed 30 March 2018)
- “The Uniqueness of Human Suffering”, (n. d.) https://speakingofresearch.com/2015/01/12/the-uniqueness-of-human-suffering-suffering-from-pain/ (last accessed 28 March 2018)
- Tierney, L., “6 Types of Images That Elicit an Emotional Response”, Shutterstock, 5 May 2017, https://www.shutterstock.com/blog/6-types-of-images-that-elicit-an-emotional-response (last accessed 28 March 2018)
- Garfield, S., “Living on Thin Ice”, The Guardian UK, 4 March 2007, https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2007/mar/04/climatechange.activists (last accessed 30 March 2018)
- Stone, S. M., “The Psychology of Using Animals in Advertising”, Northwestern Oklahoma State University, date unknown, https://www.huichawaii.org/assets/stone_sherril_the_psychology_of_using_animals_in_advertising_ahs2014.pdf (last accessed 28 March 2018)
- "Increasing Transparency in Fashion Using Blockchain", Provenance, https://www.provenance.org/case-studies/martine-jarlgaard (last accessed 31 March 2018)
Photo by Harley Weir/Stella McCartney Winter 2017 Collection.
We tend to lament the fact that our mobile phones are seemingly built in a way that their peak performance will expire after about two years. Officially, there’s a term for this: Planned Obsolescence. Anyone notice how our clothes’ vibrancy and quality don’t last, either?
1340 words; 6 mins read
Updated 5 Nov 2018
Last week, French consumer protection authorities initiated an investigation in response to reports that Apple deliberately shortened the life span or effectiveness of its products in order to prompt increased consumer demand to replace them.
In December 2017 Apple acknowledged it intentionally slowed down iPhones with older batteries, but said the move was made to extend the life of its products.
In reality however, planned obsolescence is not a new concept.
Planned obsolescence occurs when a product designer creates a design that is meant to phase out after a certain period of time. This makes the product have a lifespan of a limited duration, often influencing consumers to upgrade to a more expensive or newer model.
For example, light bulbs may burn out right after their warranty period, non-removable batteries may be used on certain electronics, spare parts may not be available for certain vehicles, and fashion trends may make clothing quickly come out of style.
What’s bad about Planned Obsolescence is that it makes it obvious to the consumer that products that we buy cannot be considered a ‘forever’ investment, but as a ‘good for a few years’ kind of purchase. As a result, we have to fork out more of our hard-earned money to buy more new things, even if the product or a part of the product is working completely fine. Think about the amount of energy, resources and money that all of this needs. Not to mention the amount of waste that we as a society generate from this model. The reason? For companies to make moolah, simple as that.
On the plus side, our disposable habits sustain jobs for people who design and produce stuff. But does this mean this is the right thing to do?
The right thing to do is to keep honing and at the same time nurture the right skills. Skills from people who repair stuff. Yup, we need to mend things more – clothes, shoes, buckles, buttons. Fix things by servicing, give parts some lubricant, change over mechanism, replace the inner workings of a computer or fridge or clock. Yes, at some point things do break down. But they should really be designed to last forever. In the case of buying software, for example, the argument to support buying a new version of Microsoft Office for light personal use, is less than compelling to me.
It’s funny that some things we want to last forever – like diamonds, and Rolex watches and grandma's vintage wedding gown. But some things we don’t give a stuff about. Why is this? Why can’t we appreciate things that we have now, tomorrow? Or twenty years from now? Or fifty?
We’ve been conditioned to think this is the way things are, so we accept it, but I can tell you – it wasn’t always like this. It all started with the American automotive industry back in the 1920’s. Read up on this topic on Wikipedia.
What’s tragic about this whole concept is that there are two dimensions to it: The functional obsolescence of a product, and the perceived obsolescence of a product. In the world of electronics and some moving parts, there may be an argument that obsolescence is necessary, but it’s really limited to innovation (and even so, one may argue this isn’t genuine innovation) and so-called product improvement.
In the world of fashion, it’s obvious the reason we buy new clothes more regularly than our previous generations was because of the heavy influence of ‘trends’ and the affordability of ‘not made to last’ garments – hence, ‘perceived’ obsolescence. I admit, I still have many friends who shop for function and purpose. But a growing number of young people are buying clothes to get a kick out of having something new, not necessarily because they actually need it. Planned Obsolescence that play with our minds; the psychological form of it. We wear clothes to protect our body from the elements, to play sports, to go to work. There are functional elements to these. But buying clothes when your wardrobe is still full of items you hardly wear? There’s no real necessity.
1340 words; 6 mins read
Updated 5 Nov 2018
Last week, French consumer protection authorities initiated an investigation in response to reports that Apple deliberately shortened the life span or effectiveness of its products in order to prompt increased consumer demand to replace them.
In December 2017 Apple acknowledged it intentionally slowed down iPhones with older batteries, but said the move was made to extend the life of its products.
In reality however, planned obsolescence is not a new concept.
Planned obsolescence occurs when a product designer creates a design that is meant to phase out after a certain period of time. This makes the product have a lifespan of a limited duration, often influencing consumers to upgrade to a more expensive or newer model.
For example, light bulbs may burn out right after their warranty period, non-removable batteries may be used on certain electronics, spare parts may not be available for certain vehicles, and fashion trends may make clothing quickly come out of style.
What’s bad about Planned Obsolescence is that it makes it obvious to the consumer that products that we buy cannot be considered a ‘forever’ investment, but as a ‘good for a few years’ kind of purchase. As a result, we have to fork out more of our hard-earned money to buy more new things, even if the product or a part of the product is working completely fine. Think about the amount of energy, resources and money that all of this needs. Not to mention the amount of waste that we as a society generate from this model. The reason? For companies to make moolah, simple as that.
On the plus side, our disposable habits sustain jobs for people who design and produce stuff. But does this mean this is the right thing to do?
The right thing to do is to keep honing and at the same time nurture the right skills. Skills from people who repair stuff. Yup, we need to mend things more – clothes, shoes, buckles, buttons. Fix things by servicing, give parts some lubricant, change over mechanism, replace the inner workings of a computer or fridge or clock. Yes, at some point things do break down. But they should really be designed to last forever. In the case of buying software, for example, the argument to support buying a new version of Microsoft Office for light personal use, is less than compelling to me.
It’s funny that some things we want to last forever – like diamonds, and Rolex watches and grandma's vintage wedding gown. But some things we don’t give a stuff about. Why is this? Why can’t we appreciate things that we have now, tomorrow? Or twenty years from now? Or fifty?
We’ve been conditioned to think this is the way things are, so we accept it, but I can tell you – it wasn’t always like this. It all started with the American automotive industry back in the 1920’s. Read up on this topic on Wikipedia.
What’s tragic about this whole concept is that there are two dimensions to it: The functional obsolescence of a product, and the perceived obsolescence of a product. In the world of electronics and some moving parts, there may be an argument that obsolescence is necessary, but it’s really limited to innovation (and even so, one may argue this isn’t genuine innovation) and so-called product improvement.
In the world of fashion, it’s obvious the reason we buy new clothes more regularly than our previous generations was because of the heavy influence of ‘trends’ and the affordability of ‘not made to last’ garments – hence, ‘perceived’ obsolescence. I admit, I still have many friends who shop for function and purpose. But a growing number of young people are buying clothes to get a kick out of having something new, not necessarily because they actually need it. Planned Obsolescence that play with our minds; the psychological form of it. We wear clothes to protect our body from the elements, to play sports, to go to work. There are functional elements to these. But buying clothes when your wardrobe is still full of items you hardly wear? There’s no real necessity.
Photo of precious metals being extracted out of electronic waste.
This 2012 published paper by several authors from universities in USA, Canada and Hong Kong has looked into the rise of Fast Fashion and how this new wave of consumerism makes a case for Luxury Brands to champion the sustainability movement in the industry. (I shall touch on sustainability leaders in the fashion industry in later weeks.)
In it, a number of participants, aged between 21 and 35 were surveyed about their purchasing habits in relation to their personal values. It summarises that even though some participants have an increased awareness of environmental issues and aligned their actions to positively impact the cause, they don’t relate consuming cheap chic as a contributor of environmental monstrosity.
The study also confirms the unnecessary consumption of fashion due to purely aesthetics reasons. As one student participant eloquently puts it, “…when I see it on the catwalks or in magazines, I want it immediately.”
On perceived obsolescence, the study quotes Abrahamson (2011), in that he observes "Fashion, more than any other industry in the world, embraces obsolescence as a primary goal; fast fashion simply raises the stakes.”
In it, a number of participants, aged between 21 and 35 were surveyed about their purchasing habits in relation to their personal values. It summarises that even though some participants have an increased awareness of environmental issues and aligned their actions to positively impact the cause, they don’t relate consuming cheap chic as a contributor of environmental monstrosity.
The study also confirms the unnecessary consumption of fashion due to purely aesthetics reasons. As one student participant eloquently puts it, “…when I see it on the catwalks or in magazines, I want it immediately.”
On perceived obsolescence, the study quotes Abrahamson (2011), in that he observes "Fashion, more than any other industry in the world, embraces obsolescence as a primary goal; fast fashion simply raises the stakes.”
"Fashion, more than any other industry in the world, embraces obsolescence as a primary goal; fast fashion simply raises the stakes.”
Is there a case for making products that last, though? Of course! Encouragingly, there are brands out there that have garnered true fans from around the world by being ‘forever’ brands that consumers can rely on, even with normal wear and tear of their products. Case in point: Osprey, the bag/backpack manufacturer, whose “All Mighty Guarantee” promises their customers that “..they will repair any damage or defect for any reason free of charge – whether it was purchased in 1974 or yesterday. If we are unable to perform a functional repair on your pack, we will happily replace it.”
Here is a link compiled in 2016 of brands that have lifetime or limited guarantees on their products.
Have you heard of Fairphone? It’s second-generation mobile phone, which was released in 2015, made a virtue of having components that could be easily swapped out by the device's owners, even if they had no technical skills to speak of. By making a device with simple-to-replace parts, Fairphone is well on its way to reverse the Planned Obsolescence strategy; by extending the lifetime of its smartphones by fixing what’s broken only.
In a way, this notion of thinking about the lifecycle of a product can be attributed to extended producer responsibility (EPR), or product stewardship.
In the meantime, we have to change our own ways of thinking. Green Alliance, a charity and independent think tank in the UK, encourages a #circular economy where people repair, sell, and re-use devices – check out their 2015 report on opportunities in the UK, USA and India for the technology industry here. Perhaps the fashion industry needs a similar alliance!
Hopefully you as a consumer are wise enough to understand that even though we are part of this wheel of mass consumption, we can break away from it, little by little with the value of every dollar spent. Spend it on the things you absolutely need, and on brands that will value you.
From now on, every time you’re faced with an impulse to buy a dress off the racks just for occasional use, just think out loud: will you be tricked again? Dollars speak volumes. The signal you’re sending to Fast Fashion will be much louder, and clearer.
Join us in our Slow Fashion movement with the hashtag #ConscientiousFashionista and #wardrobetruths on Instagram, and follow us at @fashinfidelity.
Here is a link compiled in 2016 of brands that have lifetime or limited guarantees on their products.
Have you heard of Fairphone? It’s second-generation mobile phone, which was released in 2015, made a virtue of having components that could be easily swapped out by the device's owners, even if they had no technical skills to speak of. By making a device with simple-to-replace parts, Fairphone is well on its way to reverse the Planned Obsolescence strategy; by extending the lifetime of its smartphones by fixing what’s broken only.
In a way, this notion of thinking about the lifecycle of a product can be attributed to extended producer responsibility (EPR), or product stewardship.
In the meantime, we have to change our own ways of thinking. Green Alliance, a charity and independent think tank in the UK, encourages a #circular economy where people repair, sell, and re-use devices – check out their 2015 report on opportunities in the UK, USA and India for the technology industry here. Perhaps the fashion industry needs a similar alliance!
Hopefully you as a consumer are wise enough to understand that even though we are part of this wheel of mass consumption, we can break away from it, little by little with the value of every dollar spent. Spend it on the things you absolutely need, and on brands that will value you.
From now on, every time you’re faced with an impulse to buy a dress off the racks just for occasional use, just think out loud: will you be tricked again? Dollars speak volumes. The signal you’re sending to Fast Fashion will be much louder, and clearer.
Join us in our Slow Fashion movement with the hashtag #ConscientiousFashionista and #wardrobetruths on Instagram, and follow us at @fashinfidelity.
Tags: #conscientiousfashionista #fastfashion #slowfashion #ethicalfashion #wardrobetruths #fashioneducation #obsolescence #plannedobsolescence #fashionisnolongertrendy #tricksofthetrade #fashion #gadgets #technology #circularity #circulareconomy #plannedobsolescence
References:
Abrahamson, Eric (2011) “The Iron Cage: Ugly, Cool and Unfashionable.” Organization Studies 32: pp615–29.
Why It's Normal That Stella McCartney's Latest Campaign Was Shot In A Landfill (web), last accessed 16 Jan 2018.
Abrahamson, Eric (2011) “The Iron Cage: Ugly, Cool and Unfashionable.” Organization Studies 32: pp615–29.
Why It's Normal That Stella McCartney's Latest Campaign Was Shot In A Landfill (web), last accessed 16 Jan 2018.
Photo by Kris Atomic via Unsplash.com
As a society, we should be ashamed of ourselves. We haven't really tried very hard to reduce our impact of consuming fashion, because we don't even know how they're made.
1585 words; 7 min read
Updated 5 Nov 2018
We see so many companies claiming to manufacture ethically, or producing sustainable fashion. But let's get back to basics. We can't be buying into fashion trends or ethical fashion claims, when we don't even understand how clothes are made. If we were all students in a classroom taking a test on what and who made our clothes, we would all fail – tremendously.
In the process of explaining my venture to many, many people – the Uber driver taking me to my destination, my high school friends, my ex-workmates, even my siblings, it's clear that we are dumb about where our clothes come from.
There are so many levels of inputs into the supply chain of garment production, that we don't seem to care or appreciate. We see something we like on a shelf or hanger, and if it fits well (arguably, sometimes it doesn't fit well but it's cheap enough), we snatch and pay – simple!
1585 words; 7 min read
Updated 5 Nov 2018
We see so many companies claiming to manufacture ethically, or producing sustainable fashion. But let's get back to basics. We can't be buying into fashion trends or ethical fashion claims, when we don't even understand how clothes are made. If we were all students in a classroom taking a test on what and who made our clothes, we would all fail – tremendously.
In the process of explaining my venture to many, many people – the Uber driver taking me to my destination, my high school friends, my ex-workmates, even my siblings, it's clear that we are dumb about where our clothes come from.
There are so many levels of inputs into the supply chain of garment production, that we don't seem to care or appreciate. We see something we like on a shelf or hanger, and if it fits well (arguably, sometimes it doesn't fit well but it's cheap enough), we snatch and pay – simple!
Inherently, all clothes carry an environmental footprint. Natural fibres are not always the better choice.
Consuming fashion should be easy
How do I choose better, then? Well, when it comes to choosing a piece of clothing from the shelves, consumers are driven by their own values. These are so deeply rooted and so varied in each individual, we can never gauge in which direction this decision could have its origins. We have to wear clothes, sure. This is not a fabric-shaming exercise. One fabric is not better than the other. But wouldn’t it be great if you knew some of this info at point of purchase?
What I am championing for, in this day and age, is that clothes are labelled for its environmental and social footprint. This is so that consumers can make a value-based decision that matches their own. We already do this – the food we eat based on the labels affixed on the can, or how it's described in an upmarket restaurant's menu. The furniture we buy because we know of its make and origins, and fall in love with its texture, grain, feel to touch. The drinks we avoid because we know of its sugar content. The cars we drive because we know of its emissions and where it's assembled, and so forth.
For example, we are proud to announce our wines come from a certain region, that our cars are German, that our eggs are free-range, and that our dining table is jarrah or oak. But boasting about how much water my jeans consumed in the production process? Not that sexy, is it?
But at least with a footprint label, you know. You can’t ‘un-know’ what you’ve been told. This may be a purely educational exercise, or it could actually influence purchasing decisions. What do you reckon? (I expand this idea further throughout the blog.)
What I am championing for, in this day and age, is that clothes are labelled for its environmental and social footprint. This is so that consumers can make a value-based decision that matches their own. We already do this – the food we eat based on the labels affixed on the can, or how it's described in an upmarket restaurant's menu. The furniture we buy because we know of its make and origins, and fall in love with its texture, grain, feel to touch. The drinks we avoid because we know of its sugar content. The cars we drive because we know of its emissions and where it's assembled, and so forth.
For example, we are proud to announce our wines come from a certain region, that our cars are German, that our eggs are free-range, and that our dining table is jarrah or oak. But boasting about how much water my jeans consumed in the production process? Not that sexy, is it?
But at least with a footprint label, you know. You can’t ‘un-know’ what you’ve been told. This may be a purely educational exercise, or it could actually influence purchasing decisions. What do you reckon? (I expand this idea further throughout the blog.)
When it comes to choosing our clothes, we can't simply just look at type of fabric. (Photo: Matt Seymour via Unsplash.com)
The natural versus synthetic conundrum
The most common question I get when I dive into this topic is the fabric used. Ah, the old which fabric is greener conversation.
Are natural fibres (cotton, wool, silk) better than synthetics (acrylic, nylon, polyester)? Inherently, all clothes carry an environmental footprint. Natural fibres are not always the most ethical or sustainable choice. (While we’re on this topic, leather is not technically a fabric but a material.)
In terms of natural fibres, cotton is the thirstiest yarn on the planet, whereas bamboo and hemp are must faster-growing and is less resource-intensive. Cotton also relies heavily on pesticides and insecticides to ensure maximum yield for growers.
Synthetics mostly originate from the distillation of petroleum and carries with it the footprint of mining for oil, refining, and distribution which constitutes a big chunk of environmental impacts to air, land, and water.
There's also rayon (viscose), modal, and lyocell, which the industry terms "regenerative" cellulose fibres. Unlike most man-made fibres, rayon, modal, and lyocell are not synthetic. They are made from cellulose, commonly derived from wood pulp, and more recently from bamboo. They are neither a truly synthetic fibre, in the sense of synthetics coming from petroleum, nor are they natural fibres, in the sense of processing fibres that are produced directly from plants or animals (such as wool.) However, their properties and characteristics are more similar to those of natural cellulosic fibres, such as cotton, flax (linen), hemp and jute, than those of thermoplastic, petroleum-based synthetic fibres such as nylon or polyester. More on this here.
Not all clothes are 100% of a certain fibre. We find cotton mixed with elastane, cotton silk blends, acrylic blended with wool, and polyester regularly mixed with other fibres. So your clothing footprint is all jumbled up!
Are natural fibres (cotton, wool, silk) better than synthetics (acrylic, nylon, polyester)? Inherently, all clothes carry an environmental footprint. Natural fibres are not always the most ethical or sustainable choice. (While we’re on this topic, leather is not technically a fabric but a material.)
In terms of natural fibres, cotton is the thirstiest yarn on the planet, whereas bamboo and hemp are must faster-growing and is less resource-intensive. Cotton also relies heavily on pesticides and insecticides to ensure maximum yield for growers.
Synthetics mostly originate from the distillation of petroleum and carries with it the footprint of mining for oil, refining, and distribution which constitutes a big chunk of environmental impacts to air, land, and water.
There's also rayon (viscose), modal, and lyocell, which the industry terms "regenerative" cellulose fibres. Unlike most man-made fibres, rayon, modal, and lyocell are not synthetic. They are made from cellulose, commonly derived from wood pulp, and more recently from bamboo. They are neither a truly synthetic fibre, in the sense of synthetics coming from petroleum, nor are they natural fibres, in the sense of processing fibres that are produced directly from plants or animals (such as wool.) However, their properties and characteristics are more similar to those of natural cellulosic fibres, such as cotton, flax (linen), hemp and jute, than those of thermoplastic, petroleum-based synthetic fibres such as nylon or polyester. More on this here.
Not all clothes are 100% of a certain fibre. We find cotton mixed with elastane, cotton silk blends, acrylic blended with wool, and polyester regularly mixed with other fibres. So your clothing footprint is all jumbled up!
What I am championing for, in this day and age, is that clothes are labelled for its environmental and social footprint.
Fabric is only one part of making clothes happen
What people often don’t think about is that the fabric selection is only one part of the garment manufacturing process. In a nutshell we have the following steps:
But hang on – even before we get to garment manufacturing, how did your fabric get there? Consider step (2) above, “sourcing your materials.” Your yarn did not come to a wholesaler’s office in rolls straight from an Uzbekistan cotton farm, or from a petroleum distillation refinery.
- Design / sketch / thinking about what you want, including specifications (instructions)
- Sourcing your materials (fabric, accessories, hardware) to match what you want
- Patterns, sampling and size grading
- Review your samples
- Prepare for mass production – includes ordering all your materials and fabrics, hot wash or preshrinking, dip dyeing, screen printing, digital printing, design and order your brand labels, swing tags, and clothing care labels
- Mass manufacturing and quality control
- Packing, shipping, dispatch
But hang on – even before we get to garment manufacturing, how did your fabric get there? Consider step (2) above, “sourcing your materials.” Your yarn did not come to a wholesaler’s office in rolls straight from an Uzbekistan cotton farm, or from a petroleum distillation refinery.
Handblock printing in Jaipur, India. (Photo: Najah Onn)
A big dirty part of it howeve
Yes, turning fibre into fashion is a dirty industry. This is where we focus our minds next: to the textile industry and its mills across the globe. The #textile industry is primarily concerned with the design and production of yarn, cloth, clothing, and their distribution. The raw material may be natural or synthetic using products of the chemical industry.
We tend to assume that fashion has moved into some high-tech zone, with garments produced by magic pollution-free processes, but it is far from it. Take natural fibres, for example. Turning white fluffy cotton bolls into fabric, washing the grease out of wool – often remains the back-breaking, pollution-riddled heavy industry it ever was. We might be fooled to think the process has now become ‘clean’, but the reality is, we just don’t see them – because it no longer happens in our backyard. Textile #mills are found in China, India, Italy, Germany, Bangladesh, and Pakistan. In over a hundred years, the essential process (and some of the chemicals) used in textile production really haven’t changed much.
As anti-pollution laws came into effect to protect First World inhabitants and resources (for example, the USA Federal Water Pollution Control Act 1972), the fashion industry, with its penchant for quick and cheap, switched its production game to parts of the world that are harder to monitor, and where they also often benefit from less stringent, or non-existent, legal controls.
Now I’m not saying all of textile production is bad, I’m saying most of them in Developing World countries probably wouldn’t meet your expectations if you were to visit one. After all, 90 percent of waste water in developing countries is discharged into streams and rivers without any treatment.
The truth is that, without a plethora of toxic substances or processes to choose from, your wardrobe wouldn’t be half as visually appealing or work so well on your bodies. With the exception of some pretty dire eco-fabrics (think jute and hemp – not everyone's cup of tea), a fabric can’t go anywhere until it’s finished, least of all into your washing machine or even the open air, where it would disintegrate and drip dye all over your house.
We tend to assume that fashion has moved into some high-tech zone, with garments produced by magic pollution-free processes, but it is far from it. Take natural fibres, for example. Turning white fluffy cotton bolls into fabric, washing the grease out of wool – often remains the back-breaking, pollution-riddled heavy industry it ever was. We might be fooled to think the process has now become ‘clean’, but the reality is, we just don’t see them – because it no longer happens in our backyard. Textile #mills are found in China, India, Italy, Germany, Bangladesh, and Pakistan. In over a hundred years, the essential process (and some of the chemicals) used in textile production really haven’t changed much.
As anti-pollution laws came into effect to protect First World inhabitants and resources (for example, the USA Federal Water Pollution Control Act 1972), the fashion industry, with its penchant for quick and cheap, switched its production game to parts of the world that are harder to monitor, and where they also often benefit from less stringent, or non-existent, legal controls.
Now I’m not saying all of textile production is bad, I’m saying most of them in Developing World countries probably wouldn’t meet your expectations if you were to visit one. After all, 90 percent of waste water in developing countries is discharged into streams and rivers without any treatment.
The truth is that, without a plethora of toxic substances or processes to choose from, your wardrobe wouldn’t be half as visually appealing or work so well on your bodies. With the exception of some pretty dire eco-fabrics (think jute and hemp – not everyone's cup of tea), a fabric can’t go anywhere until it’s finished, least of all into your washing machine or even the open air, where it would disintegrate and drip dye all over your house.
Inside a yarn factory in Neemrana, India. (Photo: Najah Onn)
We just need to start with existing measures first – the basics
With all that in mind, what has come of us – society at large, is that we’re first and foremost consumer of garments, and secondly (if applicable), religious trend follower of Fast Fashion. You probably know by now that Fast Fashion is not good for our planet. The resources it requires is putting extra pressure on our environment and people, in a negative way, while big corporations are only interested in making more profit for themselves by squeezing tight the cost of production – mainly in the form of wages and raw materials, and avoidance of compliance.
I don’t think we’re anywhere near solving all of Fast Fashion’s problems, or even any close at reversing the trend. But governments can regulate our factories better, right? And monitor compliance to standards? To treat wastewater prior to discharge? To install filters on our stacks? To make sure people who work in textile mills wear appropriate personal protective equipment? Are these new concepts to you? I doubt it. Once we do this, the cost of producing textiles will take into account the health of our rivers and the air we breathe, the health of our workers, the wellbeing of our societies and ecosystems. Then we can really go back to basics. Make clothes because we need and appreciate them; not because they are #trendy, according to Fast Fashion.
Perhaps it’s not really an insurmountable idea to live in a world where we intentionally purchase our necessities based on what works for our bodies. I’d like to imagine so.
I don’t think we’re anywhere near solving all of Fast Fashion’s problems, or even any close at reversing the trend. But governments can regulate our factories better, right? And monitor compliance to standards? To treat wastewater prior to discharge? To install filters on our stacks? To make sure people who work in textile mills wear appropriate personal protective equipment? Are these new concepts to you? I doubt it. Once we do this, the cost of producing textiles will take into account the health of our rivers and the air we breathe, the health of our workers, the wellbeing of our societies and ecosystems. Then we can really go back to basics. Make clothes because we need and appreciate them; not because they are #trendy, according to Fast Fashion.
Perhaps it’s not really an insurmountable idea to live in a world where we intentionally purchase our necessities based on what works for our bodies. I’d like to imagine so.
Join us in our Slow Fashion movement with the hashtag #ConscientiousFashionista and #wardrobetruths on Instagram, and follow us at @fashinfidelity.
Tags: #wardrobetruths #lessonsinfashion #ethicalfashion #fastfashion #slowfashion #fashionisnolongertrendy #fashioneducation
Tags: #wardrobetruths #lessonsinfashion #ethicalfashion #fastfashion #slowfashion #fashionisnolongertrendy #fashioneducation
References: Siegle, L. (2010) "To Die For - Is Fashion Wearing Out the World?
#FashionEducation
Adding substance to the Conscious Fashion chatter.
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